Pouilly-Fuissé "Authentique", 2009, Domaine Sangouard-Guyot

One of the first "wine facts" I remember learning is that Chardonnay is a relatively neutral grape variety and generally needs the influence of oak to make it interesting.

And whilst this is true up to a point, there are certain wine makers who feel that the New World obsession with oak has done a disservice to Chardonnay and that the grape should be allowed to express its own personality and that of its terroir.

Chardonnay produces a range of styles from steely and crisp in a cool climate to lots of exotic tropical fruits where it's hot; this one, from the southerly, Pouilly-Fuissé region of Burgundy offers something rather different from either extreme.

Made by Domaine Sangouard-Guyot, who are part of the Patrimoine des Terroirs organisation, Catherine Sangouard explained to me that the hand-harvested grapes come from "La Roche", one of the best plots in Vergisson where clay soils add to the richness and rounded structure of the wine, adding: "it is left in tanks to preserve the authentic aromas of Chardonnay. This a blend of grapes coming from very old vines (60 years on the average) giving very concentrated aromas. That is the reason why we have called it “Authentic”. It could be an ideal wine for a tasting training as we can smell and taste flavours of acacia, peaches…"

Harvesting at Sangouard-Guyot

A pale golden sandy colour in the glass, but restrained on the nose, this wine is all about structure and depth rather than variety of flavours; the palate has some good, ripe lemoniness, white peach and white flowers and hints of tropical fruit; however, what impresses most is the ripe, fresh linearity and fullness of the fruit acids together with a rich, leesy minerality on the finish.

Technically well-made, fresh and rich, this is a modern food wine - it has the depth and richness to stand up to food without overpowering, whilst its acidic structure will cut through creamy pasta or chicken in a cream and tarragon sauce.

It has a Decanter Commendation and, whilst intended to be drunk within 3-5 years, may well develop into something more complex with a few more years' bottle age.

Provided for review.

Links

Domaine Sangouard-Guyot - http://www.domaine-sangouard-guyot.com/

Patrimoine des Terroirs - http://patrimoinevin.canalblog.com/