Popular Posts

Showing posts with label Argentina. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Argentina. Show all posts

Friday, 26 August 2022

Southern Hemisphere Crisp White and Big Red

Crisp White and Big Red from the southern hemisphere - South Africa's Rustenberg and Chile's Montes

Crisp White and Big Red is a classic dinner combination; starting with France, you might look to the Loire and Bordeaux or Chablis and the Rhône.

Further afield, but staying in the Old World, a Riesling and a Barolo or Rioja would work equally well.

Here is a southern hemisphere / New World take on the same concept using classic (i.e. French) grape varieties; South African unoaked Chardonnay and Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon.

The Chardonnay has a classic unoaked flavour profile, just with more warmth and ripeness, so think Macon rather than Chablis, even if some of the fruit has a ripe-yet-green tinge.

The Cab is similarly more fruited and riper than Bordeaux, with New World's signature cassis and green pepper.

Rustenberg Wild Ferment Unwooded Chardonnay, (£12, Tesco)

This is Rustenberg's first ever unoaked Chardonnay; the aim was to create a wine that, without the influence of oak, expresses the varietal character and generosity of Chardonnay when the finest fruit is vinified for this purpose. Lees ageing adds palate weight and complements the wine's citrus fruit profile to create a wine that can be enjoyed on its own or with food. 

Arguably the most famous wine-producing region in South Africa, the vineyards of Stellenbosch take advantage of the area's topography and vineyards sit on the lower slopes of the Helderberg and Simonsberg ranges.

From the Stellenbosch region of South Africa, this Chardonnay is hand-picked and wild-fermented, with native yeasts found on the fruit and in the vineyard, in stainless steel tanks; it is then aged on lees for 3 months for more complexity.

This wine is a blend of different component vineyards, picked at different times of ripeness, some early for freshness and some late for fruit expression. Part of the batches are crushed and destemmed and part are whole bunch pressed, each technique giving a different mouth feel to the resultant wines.

floral and heady with exotic fruits and perfumed honeysuckle; orchard fruits, yellow stone fruits, greengage, sweet spices and salinity with some rich, leesy underpinnings and mid-palate complexity.

Drinks nicely on first pouring.

Good.

A versatile food wine, match with seafood, white meat and creamy cheese dishes such as tarte flambée.

Montes Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, (£9, The Co-op)

I've reviewed Montes' oaky Chardonnay from Chile previously and been impressed - see here and here.

Would their Cab be as good, I wondered?

Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the most-widely planted grapes in the world, but is rarely made into a varietal wine as it often needs some rounding out from another variety, In this case, there is 15% Merlot added for plush, juicy freshness, making this a classic Bordeaux blend.

45% of the wine is aged for 8 months with 2nd and 3rd use French oak barrels.

lifted, fruit-forward blackberries and blackcurrants with nutmeg, peppery vanilla spice, pencil shavings and some woodsy undergrowth; juicy, plush and fresh with red and black fruits, coffee grounds and cocoa; supple, well-integrated tannins, mintiness and a supple texture.

Good.

Drinks nicely on first pouring but opens up with aeration; will repay some cellaring.

Match with char-grilled meats, lamb, darker game or tuna steak.

Saturday, 21 May 2022

Two Co-Op Medal Winners

Two IWSC medal-winning wines from the Co-op

Say you need a fresh, food-friendly white plus big red to match with some red meat. Perhaps you you need them to have plenty of enjoyable fruit, but also be able to back it up with complex sophistication. But what if budget does not stretch beyond £10? Oh, and you need to be able to pop out and buy them locally, rather than have to make up a large online order? Potentially, you have quite the challenge on your hands.

However, the good news is that the Co-op has two IWSC medal-winnings wines priced around £9 that are enjoyable, sophisticated, food-friendly and kind to your wallet.

The Gavi di Gavi is a flawless, supple Italian white that you can sip in the garden, take on a picnic or match with starters or even lighter mains.

The Argentinean Malbec is plump and darkly-fruited yet fresh, perfect for char-grilled steak or barbecue meats.


Co-op Irresistible Gavi di Gavi 2021, Italy (£8.50)

Made by the Broglia family who have been producing delicate and delicious white wines in northern Italy since 1972, the first records of wine from these vineyards date from AD 972.

Despite being from a region more famous for red wines Gavi has carved out a well-deserved reputation for excellent, dry and refreshing whites.

orchard fruits, white peach, florality and sweet spices; crisp and fresh yet full and supple with baked apple, lemon curd and melon fruit and creamy toasted almond.

Thoroughly enjoyable.

Match with soft cheese, meaty white fish or white meats.


Don David Blend of Terroirs Fairtrade 2021, Argentina (£9.00) 

From the unique wine making region of the Calchaqui Valley, this is a blend of two Malbecs from different high altitudes. One brings the fruit concentration while the other adds structure, texture and backbone.

dark plums, elderberries and blueberry fruit; with liquorice, spice and violets; black cherry fruit, black olives, cool mint full, supple and fresh with an inky texture, generous extraction and rounded tannins.

Thoroughly enjoyable.

Match with roasted red meats, such as lamb with garlic and rosemary or char-grilled barbecue meats.

Thursday, 5 May 2022

The CWB Tesco Argentinean Malbec-Off

Three Malbecs from Tesco

Once a major grape in Bordeaux, Malbec was relegated to an also-ran in the 1950s; it continues to grown along the Atlantic side of the country in the Loire and Cahors, but its spiritual home these days is across the Atlantic in Argentina.

A thick-skinned, heat-loving grape, Malbec produces dark, inky, intense wines wines with plummy flavours. It is perhaps the heir to Aussie Shiraz, a New World grape that makes Big Reds that can take a lot of oak.

Also like Aussie Shiraz, it is capable of deftness as well as heft; in the right hands, it is plummy but not blowsy, fruited and spicy but fresh and food-friendly

The Malbecs of Argentina are an historic clone brought over from France in the 19th century that is now considered extinct in its native country. Argentine Malbec is has a deep colour, intense fruit and a plush, velvety texture.

Malbec is one of the UK's more popular grapes and is a great match for grilled red meats, especially char-grilled bone-in steaks.

Here are three Argentinean Malbecs from Tesco, all with a bit of age.

My personal favourite here is the DV Catena for its European-style fresh fruit, lower alcohol and sophisticated oaking.

Also from Catena, the Tesco Finest is a little more expressive, so think barbecue more than dinner table. With a degree more alcohol, the Vinalba is a more concentrated, bigger, fuller wine that demands rich, gamey foods.

All these wines will benefit from an hour or so in the decanter and have further aging potential.


Tesco Finest The Trilogy Malbec, Mendoza, 2018 (£12)

Produced and bottled by Bodegas y Vinedos Catena, 

From the very beginning The Wines of Catena set out to discover the best places to plant vineyards in Mendoza, identifying the best microclimates for Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Malbec.

In addition, new techniques of cluster thinning and harvest practices were implemented to further increase concentration. 

Located by the Andes Mountains in west Argentina, the province of Mendoza is renowned for housing some of the best winegrowing regions of Argentina. The character of Mendoza wines is forged in high altitude desert vineyards irrigated by mineral-rich snowmelt from glaciers and snowfields.

Altitudes range from 1,000 to 5,000 feet, where the foothills rise steeply toward the Andes' peaks. High altitude means cool temperatures, clear air and more sunlight which develops flavour.

Sourced from three exceptional high altitude vineyard sites in the Uco Valley, Lunlunta and Agrelo, which produce Malbec of perfect balance, concentration and elegance, this wine goes through an extensive cold maceration for 3 days to extract aromas.

The juice is then fermented for 10 days with further post-fermentation maceration of 24 days. The wine then sees French and American oak. Barrel selection varies depending on the vineyard - First, second and third use barrels are used

dark fruits and black olives with spice, dried green herbs and cocoa; supple and juicy with cassis, ripe bramble fruits, plush rounded tannins, pencil shavings and an inky texture; spicy, concentrated and long.

Good.

Drinks nicely on first opening and improves with some aeration and can be further cellared.

Great with grilled, roasted or barbecued meat.


DV Catena Tinto Historico Malbec, Mendoza, 2019 (£12)

Catena wines are a special assemblage of High Mountain Estate Vineyards made by fourth generation vintner, Laura Catena and chief winemaker, Alejandro Vigil.

Through decades of study and exploration within Mendoza's high altitude mountain terroirs, the Catena family has identified special locations for its Estate vineyards. From the marriage of these historic vineyards merges a wine of unique character that has natural balance, concentration and a distinct varietal identity. 

This wine is made from a blend of two vineyards harvested at different times. The Angelica vineyard which is at 920m elevation with alluvial soils and the El Cepillo Vineyard at 1090m elevation.

A blend of 95% Malbec, 3% Petit Verdot and 2% Bonarda made to honor Don Domingo's legendary abilities as a master blender.

Domingo Vicente Catena married Angélica Zapata in 1934, giving birth to the Catena Zapata tradition. With a singular sense of passion and dedication, he devoted his life to improving the cultivation of the vine in Mendoza.

Domingo Vicente Catena, Laura Catena's grandfather, thought that Malbec could made a wine as great as the best of France. Upon his death, his son Nicolás Catena decided to honour his father by making Malbec world-famous.

This wine is made using various techniques to help enhance the extract of aromas. It is fermented using wild yeasts to increase the complexity of the finished wine. It then spends 12 months in oak barrels.

red and black berry fruits, spice; ripe, juicy plum fruit with  complex spices and cocoa powder; plush, full and supple with savoury freshness; well-made and well-structured with good underpinnings.

Good.

Drinks nicely on first opening and improves with some aeration and can be further cellared.

Savoury, fresh and versatile match this with roast chicken or turkey as well as more obvious red meats.

It has 95 points from James Suckling.


Vinalba Gran Reservado Malbec, Mendoza, 2018  (£16)

The grapes are harvested in the first half of April by hand into small trays of 20kg to prevent damage and then meticulously sorted twice in order to select the best grapes for this wine.

Cold maceration takes for 5 days followed by fermentation in temperature controlled tanks at 28° with indigenous yeast and 4 pump overs per day and a period of 25 days of maceration. 

The wines are made by Bordeaux-born pioneer Hervé J. Fabre who was the first to make single varietal Argentine Malbec after recognising the true potential of the grape.

Viñalba offers a range of beautifully crafted wines, combining Argentina's purity of fruit and clear varietal expression with the elegance and complexity which are the hallmarks of Hervé's classical background. Mendoza has become one of the most dynamic wine producing regions in the world with an enviable array of grape varieties, many of which are planted at high altitudes.

The Gran Reservado Malbec is Fabre's flagship wine, hand-crafted by winemaker Hervé J Fabre to showcase the quality that Argentine Malbec can produce.

dark and inky with cassis, black cherries, black olives and complex spices; plush blackberry, blueberry and black cherry fruit with liquorice, cool mint and florality; full and supple with concentrated intensity.

Good.

Match with lamb or darker game, such as duck or venison.

Benefits from some aeration and will repay some cellaring.

Thursday, 14 April 2022

Two Malbecs for #MalbecWorldDay

Two Malbecs - Languedoc (Abbotts & Delaunay) and Argentina (Argento)

France is Languedoc's original home and Argentina its new home; a heat-loving grape, it was once grown in over 30 departements, but is now mainly associated with the South Western Cahors region.

That said, it appears pretty much all the way down the Atlantic seaboard from the Loire to Languedoc via Bordeaux, where it was once a major grape, but has since been replaced by the more reliable Merlot.

It was introduced to Argentina in the late 1800s, possibly as a clone that is now extinct in France. Given the Andes rise very gradually, it can be grown at very high altitude, allowing for long slow ripening with plenty of sunlight for flavour and cool nights to preserve freshness.

Malbec's appeal is easy to understand; Big Fruit with plentiful colour and an inky texture. World Malbec Day is on 17th April

Abbotts & Delaunay, Fleurs Sauvages, Pays d’Oc, Malbec 2020 (£10.99 or £8.99 mix six @ Majestic)

30 year old vines grown on the slopes of the Orb Valley in the Hérault, vineyards in the west of the Aude and in the dry salt marsh in Marseillette, each bringing different characteristics to the wine. 

Thanks to the work in the vineyards that respect the soils and the vines, healthy, concentrated grapes can be harvested whilst respecting the wild flowers (Fleurs Sauvages) and other wild life that surrounds them.

plummy dark berry fruit and spice; fresh and supple with inky graphite; violets, liquorice, red and black fruits with spicy notes; well-structured and elegant with a persistent finish.

Opens up with some aeration and can be cellared.

Good.

Match with charcuterie or rare red meats.

Argento Single Vineyard Altamira Organic Malbec (£13.99, www.allaboutwine.com)

Single-vineyard wine from Altamira in Mendoza's Uco Valley; 100% Malbec grown at almost 1,100m above sea level; the 22.5-hectare plot is certified both organic and Fairtrade.

dark fruits, blackcurrant pastilles and complex oaky spices with leather and mushrooms; supple, dense and inky with cassis, dark berries, black olives, graphite and mouth-watering freshness; savoury with very good underpinnings.

Drinks nicely on first pouring but improves with aeration and can be cellared.

Very Good.

Match with jamon or rare roast beef or tuna steak

Further reviews


Sunday, 12 September 2021

The CWB Co-op South American Red-Off

Two South American reds from The Co-op

Either side of the Andes, Chile and Argentina and synonymous with South American wine and are its two biggest producers.

For reds, Chile's signature grape is Carménère (historically confused with Merlot, which it somewhat resembles); whereas, for Argentina it is the heat-loving Malbec.

These two South American wines from the Co-op represent an exploration of what these countries can do beyond their most well-known varieties.

Syrah is a warm-climate grape originally from the Rhône, whereas Cabernet Franc tolerates a wider range of climates from the somewhat chilly Loire (where it produces fresh, vibrant wines) to warm-climate Languedoc where it is bigger and fuller.

Leyda Valley Syrah, Chile (£10)

A fresh and juicy cool-climate Syrah grown just 4km away from the Pacific Ocean and produced by multi-award winning winemaker Viviana Navarrete.

floral, bubblegum nose with baked dark fruits, cocoa and spice; juicy, slightly stewed blackcurrant, blackberry and black cherry fruits, minty eucalyptus and generous extraction with ripe, rounded tannins; fresh and savoury.

Improves with aeration.

Good.

Match with char-grilled red meats or charcuterie. 

Brazos Cabernet Franc, Argentina (£9.50)

Made by Familia Zuccardi, a family-run winery in Mendoza region of Argentina, dating back to 1968.

red and black fruits, eucalyptus, clove and peppery spice; red and black plum, black olives, grilled notes and lifted cool mint with spicy oakiness: generously extracted and slightly port; firm, slightly drying tannins

Thoroughly enjoyable in a rough-and-tumble sort of way

Match with hearty foods such as rustic pâté or crostini with tapenade.

Saturday, 16 January 2021

Artesano de Argento organic Fairtrade Malbec 2019

An organic Malbec from Argentina via Tesco

Artesano de Argento organic Fairtrade Malbec was launched in the UK late last year and is the second wine from the Artesano de Argento range (you can read about the first here).

Argento is the largest organic wine producer in Mendoza  with over 300 hectares of organic vineyards and plans to raise this to over 400 in 2021.

Malbec originated in France where it is also known as Côt; it was once a major grape in Bordeaux until it was replaced by the more reliable Merlot in the 1950s.

It has now become Argentina's signature red grape; it is thin-skinned and needs both sunshine and heat (both of which Argentina has in abundance) to ripen. Main characteristics are deep color, ample tannins and plummy flavours.

With plenty of acidity and tannin, Malbec is a great match for red meat, but if Argentine steaks are not your thing, or if you are doing Veganuary, Bodega Argento has teamed up with supergoldenbakes.com to create delicious vegan recipes to match their Artesano de Argento range (which are vegan, organic and Fairtrade).

The recipes have been developed by supergoldenbakes’ Lucy Parissi, as vegan takes on classic winter favourites - perfect for hearty suppers or cosy lunches.

Vegan Shepherd’s Pie, served with Artesano de Argento organic Fairtrade Malbec 2019

This vegan Shepherd’s Pie is a plant-based twist on the British classic. A rich jackfruit ragu, topped with mashed potatoes and baked until irresistibly golden. Simply the best for a comforting dinner and best enjoyed lingering over a glass of smooth, silky red.’, comments author Lucy Parissi. 

‘The Artesano de Argento Malbec is a great match for this dish and I love its vegan, organic and Fairtrade credentials too.’ Artesano de Argento organic Fairtrade Malbec 2019 is a silky, elegant Argentinian Malbec, bursting with dark cherries, plums and a hint of violet. It is a perfect match for stews and hearty dishes but can equally be enjoyed on its own.


Artesano de Argento organic Fairtrade Malbec 2019 (£10, Tesco online and selected stores) ripe black fruits, cassis and pastilles, with herbs and spice; supple texture, fresh, inky and vibrant with harmonious, well-integrated tannins and good underpinnings.

Thoroughly enjoyable.

Tuesday, 20 October 2020

Zuccardi Valles Torrontés 2019

A floral Torrontes from Argentina via Cambridge Wine

Zuccardi Valles Torrontés

Torrontes is pretty much unique to Argentina; it is a naturally-occurring crossing of two other grapes, Muscat of Alexandria (itself an ancient variety) and Mission, a grape introduced from Spain to the western coasts of the Americas by Catholic New World missionaries for their sacramental wines, also known as Criolla.

There are actually three different Torrontes grapes; Torrontés Riojano (the most common) as well as Torrontés Sanjuanino, and Torrontés Mendocino.

The grape does well in the cool, dry and windswept Salta region of northwest Argentina.

Its flavour profile is always floral and aromatic with high alcohol and low acidity. If you are looking for other grapes to compare it with, think Gewurztraminer or Muscat.

Is it Argentina's signature white grape? Argentina expert, Wink Lorch, argues that historically Chardonnay always produced the finest whites in Argentina and likely still does, but that Torrontes is the most original.

And it is this originality that makes Torrontes a love-it-or-loathe, Marmite type of wine; it is expressive, floral and strongly flavoured, full-bodied and waxy. This makes it something of a tricky food match, so drink as an aperitif or serve with rich, spiced Asian-style foods such as a coconut-based curry.

You can tame its exuberance by chilling it right down, but then you lose all that distinctive personality - which you may or may not consider a good thing. Wine educator and entertainer  Lee Isaacs, a firm supporter (but possibly a little biased), says "Everyone loves Torrontés. Fantastic variety."

If it's not your thing, you are not alone; here's what Master of Wine Rod Smith has to say:

Torrontes is truly an abhorrence of a wine. Straight from the anal glands of beelzebub, covered up with the perfume of toilet duck and old lady’s pot pourri. It tastes like throwing up after eating your body-weight in parma violets. Only not as nice as that sounds.

Zuccardi Valles Torrontés 2019 - Salta, Argentina (£14.25, Cambridge Wine Merchants, Ann et Vin, Red Bottle)  floral and aromatic with lychees and rose petals, ripe yellow stone fruits, orange peel, sweet spices and minerality. Weighty, yet deft and harmonious; very well-made; rounded and supple with good underpinnings.

Good.

Thursday, 1 October 2020

Artesano De Argento Organic Fairtrade Malbec - Tesco

An organic Malbec from Argentina - at Tesco

Malbec is Argentina's signature red grape; recently, I've had more French Malbec than Argentinean recently and this one sits somewhere between the elegant Old World style and something fruitier and more approachably New World.

Artesano De Argento Organic Fairtrade Malbec 2019 (£10, Tesco) black fruits and spice; elderberries, dark plums and blueberries with oak and mocha; fresh, inky and vibrant with harmonious, well-integrated tannins and good underpinnings.

Thoroughly enjoyable.

A "Christopher Nolan" sort of wine; match with posh barbecue foods.

Tuesday, 24 March 2020

House of Townend

Two wines from independent, fourth-generation wine merchant House of Townend

A good independent wine merchant will be able to get hold of interesting wines in relatively small quantities that you will not find from larger retailers.

There are a couple of ways to establish if the merchant is good 1) longevity 2) try a few wines at random.

Independent wine merchant House of Townend has something of a grand history dating back four generations to the early 1900s, so clearly they have been doing something right.

These days they have a couple of commendations from Decanter, but what really matters is whether the wines are any good.

These two wines were not selected at random, but they provide something of an introduction.

Below £10, you are generally not looking at "classic" regions and these two bottles are from areas noted more for value than for heritage. What this means in practice is that you get a modern style of mainstream wine with more of your money going into quality than badging for label-snobs.

They are both well made, sophisticated, fault-free and very easy-to-enjoy.

Le Charme Sauvignon Blanc by Christine Cabri, IGP Pays du Gers (£7.99) made by SW French heroes Producteurs Plaimont, Oz Clarke describes this as "one of the best value Sauvignons in Britain"; expressive, aromatic and zippy in a kiwi style, with fresh green apple and lime acidity, minerality and good, structured underpinnings.

Well made and thoroughly enjoyable.

Drink as an aperitif or match with light starters; goat's cheese crostini or prawns with coriander leaves.

Animado Malbec, Argentina (£9.49) from Argentina's Zuccardi winery, this drinks nicely straight out of the bottle but opens up with some air; juicy blueberry and black cherry fruit with soft strawberries and raspberries and some spice. Fresh, harmonious and easy-drinking with a supple texture. Very deft and elegant.

Fresh and juicy enough to quaff, match with pâté, salami or steak.

Sunday, 15 March 2020

Mothers' Day Wines from The Co-op

Two wines for Mothers' Day from Ramon Bilbao and Vinalba via the Co-op

Is your mum a red or white sort of person?

In her youth, my Mum smoked, drank coffee and was attracted to my Dad for his spontaneity, idiosyncrasy and charisma.

More recently, Mum managed to get herself into a bit of a scrape and, when three people had tried and failed to help her, ended up calling the Fire Brigade, making a point of her age, and asking to be rescued. They said "Madam, we're on our way" and within a few minutes a crew of burly Firefighters had come get her out of trouble.

As she told me the story, I asked her: But did you not actually, at any point, consider the risks of what you were doing? She replied; look dear, if you're going to be like that about it, I won't tell you these stories any more.

I love my Mum.

Of course, I didn't tell her that at the time; I just told her I needed to see pictures or it didn't happen. It turns out that a selfie with the Fire crew was not a priority for her.

My Mum likes red wines and whites with a bit of  something about them (which is essentially what a rosé is), so here are two that will suit her.

Ramon Bilbao El Viaje Rosé (£8) elegant with red berries, citrus and stone fruits; florality, white pepper and minerality; good underpinnings so will stand up to food.

Thoroughly enjoyable.

Drink as an aperitif or match with tapas, salmon or prawns.

Viñalba Finca La 70 Malbec Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 (£9) red and black berries, plum, vanilla and clove spice with dried green herbs. Substantial with generous extraction.

Thoroughly enjoyable.

Match with darker game, such as duck-liver pate or venison steak.

Sunday, 26 January 2020

Artesano de Argento Organic Fairtrade Malbec-Cabernet Franc

An elegant Argentinean red blend from Sainsbury's

The two things to know about Argentina are:

- high altitude
- Malbec

High altitude does a number of things for a wine - in very simple terms, it means cooler overnight temperatures and therefore more freshness alongside lots of fruit ripeness. This is A Good Thing.

Malbec (aka France's Côt) needs lots of sun and makes dark, full-bodied wines. By contrast, Cabernet Franc is naturally more elegant and has aromas of plum, raspberry and tobacco. Both grapes originated in France and are grown in the Loire, Bordeaux and Languedoc

This Argentinean wine combines all these elements very successfully; the dark, inkiness of the Malbec, the high-altitude ripe-fruited freshness of Argentina and the peppery, plummy elegance of the Cab Franc; it is technically well-made with a vibrancy and deftness.

Artesano de Argento Organic Fairtrade Malbec-Cabernet Franc, 2018 (£10, Sainsbury's) concentrated, inky and dense, with dark plummy fruit, spice, pencil shavings and liquorice; fresh, pure and elegant with gentle-yet-firm tannins. Vibrant, dense and muscular - deft and well-made.

Improves with aeration and can be aged.

Thoroughly enjoyable.

Match with an Argentinean steak or any roast meat.

Tom Cannavan is also a fan; he finds the tannins a little chunky and rustic in his video review.

Fiona Beckett finds it smooth and plummy in her review.

Monday, 2 September 2019

Bancroft At Virgin Wines


Bancroft at Virgin Wines' Cambridge Tasting

As well as their own wines, Virgin also sell a selection from Bancroft whom I've always found impressive.

Here are four that I got to try at Virgin's Cambridge tasting earlier this year. With the exception of the Garnacha, they are in a higher price bracket than one would normally associate with Virgin.

Domaine Billaud-Simon Chablis 2016 (£22) pure and clean, rounded and supple with citrus and honey; lovely textbook Chablis. Good.

Hubert Lamy La Princee Saint-Aubin 2016 (£37) herbs, citrus and ripe lime marmalade; fresh, vibrant white Burgundy with excellent underpinnings. Will improve further with age. very Good.

Pablo Claro Garnacha 2017 (£10.99) organic, biodynamic Spanish red with a funky nose and ripe cherry fruit. Vibrant and pleasant in a slightly punky way.

Luigi Bosca Finca Los Nobles Malbec Verdot 2014 (£34.99) points-chasing, Argentinian red; something of a Parker-Points chaser. substantial with dark fruits, firm, ripe tannins and spice. Hefty yet deft. Technically very impressive; Very Good.

Saturday, 27 July 2019

Familia Zuccardi Chardonnay Q 2017 - Virgin Wines

A fresh and gently-oaked New World Chardie from Virgin

Chardonnay is perhaps the most versatile of all grapes - from steely cool-climates to warm, with oak and without, sparkling and still, it covers all the mainstream styles eschewing only sticky and fortified versions.

Chardonnay is the great grape of Champagne, white Burgundy and more latterly ripe-oaky New World styles.

After becoming everyone's go-to white in the 1990s, New World Chardonnays got ever bigger, riper and oakier in a sort of more-is-better cycle.

These days, a good New World Chardonnay is often a more restrained, more nuanced affair, with good fruit expression and subtle oaking. Outside of France, Chardonnay is perhaps most associated with Australia and California, but pretty much everywhere you've heard of makes some.

This Familia Zuccardi Chardonnay is, as the name suggests, from a family-run winery and is modern, classic New World style; clean, pure and deft; Burgundian yet better value than an equivalent Burgundy.

Familia Zuccardi Chardonnay Q 2017 (£15.99) citrus, melon and orchard fruits with zippy lime zest and deft oaking. Fresh and substantial. Pure, precise and mineral with excellent underpinnings.

Good.

A versatile wine, drink as an aperitif or match with white fish or white meats

Monday, 15 July 2019

Crisp White and Big Red from the Co-op

A Crisp White and Big Red from the Co-op - Peter Yealands and Fairtrade Malbec

Crisp White and Big Red is a classic combination for any meal.

If you are doing a "four-wine" meal, you might add in fizz or sherry to start and a dessert wine to finish, but the traditional core is white with starters and red with mains.

In the Old World, you might go for Chablis and Bordeaux, Soave and Barolo or Txakoli and Rioja.

Here are two New World wines from The Co-op that work well together:

Peter Yealands Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand, 2018 (£9.50, reduced to £7.50 from 17 July until 13 August) fresh, pure and aromatic with cut grass, white pepper, zippy lime, minerality and tropical fruits.

Good.

Match with seafood starters, such as white fish in a herby broth.

Co-op Irresistible Fairtrade Organic Malbec, Argentina 2017 (£7.50) spicy with ripe dark fruits, fine tannins and an oaky-inky texture. Generously extracted.

Match with steak or roast lamb with rosemary and garlic.

It has an IWC Silver and the Fairtrade trophy.

Drink outdoors or in.

Saturday, 19 May 2018

Award-Winning Co-op Wines

https://news.sky.com/story/six-moments-of-the-prince-harry-and-meghan-markle-wedding-you-didnt-hear-11378629
Two award-winning wines from the Co-op

These two award winning wines from the Co-op are the Meghan and Harry of wines - crowd-pleasing, sophisticated and characterful.

On a sunny day with a national event - be it Royal or sporting - to watch, these expressive and classy wines are a perfect match with party food or as sippers.

Most Wanted Albarino 2017 (£8.49) ripe yellow stone fruits, sweet spices and freshness with minerality. Very adept.

Good.

Match with salmon, pate or roast pork.

Trapiche Medalla Malbec 2015 (£12.99) ripe, dark berry fruits, spice and freshness with fine, rounded tannins.Very adept.

Good.

Match with roast red meats, steak or burgers.

Saturday, 17 February 2018

Fairtrade Fortnight Wines From The Co-op

Two wines from the Co-op for Fairtrade Fortnight 2018

This year's Fairtrade Fortnight runs from 26 February to 11 March.

The Co-op has long understood that Fairtrade wines need to stand on their own merits - they should be first and foremost wines that people want to drink and only after that Fairtrade.

These two reds are both thoroughly enjoyable; both have a bit of age and are drinking very nicely now. The Lebanese wine is the more interesting of the two (in all senses).

Co-op Fairtrade Argentina Malbec (£7.49) ripe, dark-berry fruit, spices and violets; plump and supple texture. Fresh and juicy (just 12.5% alcohol) with no rough edges at all.

Match with a juicy steak.

Coteaux Les Cedres Fairtrade Red, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon (£11.99) Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Tempranillo and Arinarnoa blend; baked dark fruits, red cherries and plums with sweet spices. Some aged character of cigar box, woodsiness and leather. Very fine tannins and a fresh, mineral backbone.

Good.

Match with roast or barbecued red meats.

Thursday, 8 February 2018

Bancroft Wines - Spring Portfolio Tasting

Bancroft Wines' Spring Portfolio Tasting, held in the Dutch Church

I've long believed that you judge the quality of a wine merchant by their weakest wines, not their best. Pick a couple of bottles at random and if there's nothing bad about them, you're likley to be on to a winner.

Fortunately, all the wines I tried at this Bancroft Spring Portfolio tasting were throroughly enjoyable, many of them very impressive indeed.
Here are my top picks:

Westwell Wines, Kent, England
Recently acquired by new owners, the wines on show came with the purchase, so few details available; the range is wide - white, fizz, pink, dessert and even amphora - and they were all enjoyable and reasonably priced given their origin.
WS Special Cuvee 2014 (£22.45) elegant, pricise and mineral traditional metho fizz; low dosage; leesy with a firm, assertive backbone. Very Good.

Weingut Weszeli, Kamptal, Austria
Another newly-acquired winery, with an excellent range of GV and Riesling.
Gruener Veltliner Kaeferberg OeWT 2013 (£26.10) precise, complex and full gruener; restrained with stone fruit and some creaminess. Substantial, structured and long. Very Good.

Elena Walch, Alto Adige, Italy

Lagrein Riserva Vigna "Catel Ringberg" 2013 (£30.20) fresh and spicy with fine tannins; substantial with dark fruit and earthy truffles. Balanced, harmonious and poised. Still very youthful. Very Good.
Tacchino, Piedmont, Italy
Good range of classic reds, whites and an off-dry fizz.
Rosso di Monferrato, Di Fatto 2013 (£15.50) a blend of four varieties, spicy and darkly fruited with black and sour cherries, freshness and a firm core; long. Good.

Domaine Savary, Chablis
Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir 2015 (£36.70) rich, complex and floral-honeyed; fresh, with orchard fruit. Still very youthful. Very Good.

Domaine Ratte, Jura
Excellent biodynamic wines from Jura with a distinctive flavour.
"Nature" Savignan 2016 (£25.30) complex nose with struck-match and musky, cidery sharpness; fresh and piercing, yet rich and rounded; long, substantial and complex with good underpinnings. Very Good.
Valdaya, Ribera Del Duero, Spain

Valdaya Mirum 2015 (£31.80) very fresh and harmonious with dark fruit, spice  and very fine tannins. Elegant, substantial and precise. Very Good Indeed.

Hermanos Perez Pascuas, Vina Pedros, Ribera Del Duero, Spain
From the entry-level mid-teens to the top cuvee with a trophy price-tag, these were all excellent wines. Choosing here is really just a case of selecting a budget and taking your pick; it would be easy to single out the £200+ wine as the best, as indeed it was. However, in the real world, there is better value around £20.
Vina Pedrosa Crianza 2014 (£21.50) bramble fruit, spice, earthy truffleyness; harmonious, supple and complex with freshness and substance. Very Good.

Es Fangar, Pla I Levant, Mallorca
Mallorcan wines are not that often seen over here, but are worth seeking out.
N'Amarat, 2011 (£35.75) fresh, spicy and complex with dark-berry fruits and gamey truffleyness; elegant and supple. Very Good.

Bodega Luigi Bosca, Mendoza, Argentina
South America is all too often in thrall to the bigger-is-better style of wines that do well further north. The more interesting winemakers, however, are following a more European-style approach.
Icono Malbec Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 (£63.20) fresh, vibrant and substantial with a muscular core; dense, energetic and concentrated. Still very youthful. Very Good Indeed.

Tuesday, 18 July 2017

Virgin Wines - the Reds


A range of reds from Virgin wines

If you want to try a range of reds that are both typical and demonstrate the breadth of what a red wine can be, you could do worse than try these from Virgin Wines.

From the freshness of the Loire Cab Franc to a fortified port-esque Malbec via the Rhône and a Sicilian passimento made from partially-dried grapes.

Domaine Lame-Delisle-Boucard Bourgeuil Cuvee des Chesnais 2015 (£9.99) fresh raspberry leaf and cherry fruit with pepper, spice and minerality.

Good and good value.

Fresh enough to sip slightly chilled on a hot day or match with lightly-smoked salmon fillets.

Chateau Cambis Cotes du Rhone Villages 2014 (£10.99) light and fresh Rhône, with elderberry fruit, liquorice, pencil shavings, dried green herbs and fine, firm tannins; lacks fruit-plumpness, a little basic.

Drink with red meats, such as burgers or roast beef.

Eghemon Passimiento 2015 (£15.99) prunes, figs and baked red berry fruit with spice; strong, concentrated, sweet and intense, cut through with freshness. Good underpinnings.

Good.

Drink as an after-dinner sipper or match with darker game and aged cheeses.

Familia Zuccardi Malamado Malbec 2014 (£15.99) port-style fortified Malbec from Argentina. Herbaceous, figgy-raisiny, sweet and powerful, with dried plums, black fruits and savoury roasted spices.

Good.

Like ruby port, it will match with mature cheeses, dark chocolate, Christmas puddings and mince pies; or darker game.

Friday, 5 August 2016

Olympic Wines

Three wines to support your Olympic team

Strictly, Olympic wines should probably be from Greece. Or Brazil.

However, these three wines all come from countries competing in the Olympics, so sit back, relax and pour one of these into your glass to toast the respective nation as they appear in the opening ceremony.
France
Dourthe N°1 Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Bordeaux Blanc (£8.50; The Wine Society) aromatic citrus and blackcurrant leaf, gooseberries passion fruit aromas and rounded elegant freshness. Clean, pure and substantial.

Match with pasta and pesto, monkfish in herb broth or garlic and herb roulade.

Very good value.

Argentina
Clos de los Siete 2013, Argentina (£15; Sainsbury’s, Waitrose) Malbec blend ripe, slightly jammy bramble fruit and oaky spice, with a smooth and supple texture; balance full and harmonious.

Drinking nicely straight out of the bottle now, it will improve with aeration or bottle aging.

Good.

Match with roast lamb or other red meat.

Portugal
10 Year Old Tawny Taylor’s 10 Year Old Tawny (£22; Morrisons, Sainsbury’s, Tesco) figs, raisin and roasted nuts with ripe berries and eucalyptus - an elegant, timeless classic.

Good.

Match with hard cheeses or chocolate-and-cherry torte.

Other related articles
Rugby and Polo: Bordeaux vs Argentina

Saturday, 9 July 2016

Francois Lurton South America Tasting

Tasting notes for the wines of Francois Lurton from Chile and Argentina

Stylistically, Francois Lurton's wines evoke his bordelais background - they are a blend of new world ripeness with an old world love of structure in general and acidity in particular.

If you think South American wines are no more than cheap-and-cheerful fruit-forward crowd-pleasers, think again.

Chile
Hacienda Araucano
Humo Blanco Sauvignon Blanc 2016 (£12.99) barrel-fermented, more textured than expressive; full waxy and rich

Clos de Lolol 2015 (£17.40) SB/Ch textured, rounded and long. Good.

Humo Blanco Cabernet Franc 2015 (£13.99) ripe, supple, deft clean and pure

Clos de Lolol Red 2013 (£17.40) Syrah blend, spicy with grilled notes, soft and supple

Gran Araucano Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 (£24) Bordelais-style spice and leather with new world fruit; very clean, pure and precise. Long supple and harmonious. Good.

Alka 2014 (£49.95) Carmenere, complex with pure blueberry fruit and varietal soy and coffee; deft, long and supple with gently assertive tannins. Very Good.

Argentina

Bodega Piedra Negra

Gran Lurton Blanco 2014 (£16.99) Sauvignon Vert, oak fermented, textured leesy and long. Good.

Gran Lurton Red 2011 (£16.99) CS blend, bramble fruit with grilled, spicy notes; fresh, supple, long and adept. Good.

Gran Malbec 2011 (£22) blowsy yet complex blockbusting 15.8% Malbec; black and sour cherries, spice; long and supple with a warming, grippy finish.

Chacayes 2013 (£49.95) Malbec blend, impressively big spicy, ripe and supple wine with dark fruit and grip. Good - needs further aging.

Dinner - the taste-off

Over our Peruvian dinner, we paired off some museum pieces from both estates' collections.
Clos de Lolol White 2011 vs Gran Lurton Bianco 2007 on the nose, the Lolol appears to be the older and more evolved of the two; the Lurton is in better shape and wears its aged character well.

Gran Araucano Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 vs Gran Lurton 2005 (CS blend) the fruit in both is starting to dry out a little, the Araucano is Medoc-esque with capsicum and tobacco leaf, the Lurton is more Rhone-like with dark fruit, spice and a custardy texture.

Alka 2003 (Carmenere) vs Chacayes 2003 (Malbec blend) the Chacayes is the clear winner here; it shows beautifully, with complex peppery-minty dark bramble fuits and an harmonious structre; Very Good. The Alka feels more evolved and dried out, but the acidity is still fresh and the texture supple.

Other related articles
Francois Lurton Dinner