Two aromatic wines for spring - Robert Oatley and Jean-Luc Colombo
The days are getting longer, perhaps even a little warmer.
These two classy whites are textured enough for early spring and aromatic enough for lighter dishes.
Both are waxy and full with a nod to Italy - Fiano is originally from southern Italy, whilst the Vermentino (known as Rolle across the border in France) is also Italian in origin.
Both would make good picnic wines if the weather permits; otherwise match with garlic-and-herb roast pork, chicken or monkfish.
Robert Oatley Hancock & Hancock Fiano 2016 (£14.55, Luvians Bottleshop, Ann et Vin, Eynsham Cellars, Warren Wines, Amp Fine Wines) ripe, fresh melon and pineapple fruit with a creamy nuttiness. Full and substantial.
Good.
Jean-Luc Colombo Collines de Laure Blanc 2015 (£13.85 Harrods, Campbell Moore, Evington’s, Islington Wine, Planet of the Grapes) waxy and floral with fennel aromas and fresh ripe melon and stone fruit. Full and substantial with a southern warmth.
Good.
Showing posts with label Wine of The Month. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Wine of The Month. Show all posts
Sunday, 19 March 2017
Saturday, 6 February 2016
Wine of the Month - Three Co-op Wines For Valentine's
Three Co-op wines for Valentine's day
Tradition has it that Valentine's wines should be pink and / or fizzy. Some however, may prefer to defy custom and go with a wine that is more seasonally-appropriate.
The rosé has an award, the Rhône is blended by an MW and the Bollinger is just a class act in its own right.
Bollinger NV Champagne Gift Pack (£34.99 reduced from £44.99 from the 3 February until 23 February inclusive) toasty brioche and fresh orchard fruits with nutty-creamy oatmeal; well structured and persistent. Elegant, substantial and complex. Good.
The Co-operative Truly Irresistible Pic St Loup Rosé 2014 (£6.99) Pale with red berry fruits, freshness and minerality. Elegant, precise and adept. Good.
Les Quatre Seigneurs Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2014 (£8.99) Red and dark fruits, dried green herbs and spice; big and warming (in a European sort of way) with freshness. Good.
Other related articles
Co-op Fairtrade Wines
Tradition has it that Valentine's wines should be pink and / or fizzy. Some however, may prefer to defy custom and go with a wine that is more seasonally-appropriate.
The rosé has an award, the Rhône is blended by an MW and the Bollinger is just a class act in its own right.
Bollinger NV Champagne Gift Pack (£34.99 reduced from £44.99 from the 3 February until 23 February inclusive) toasty brioche and fresh orchard fruits with nutty-creamy oatmeal; well structured and persistent. Elegant, substantial and complex. Good.
The Co-operative Truly Irresistible Pic St Loup Rosé 2014 (£6.99) Pale with red berry fruits, freshness and minerality. Elegant, precise and adept. Good.
Les Quatre Seigneurs Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2014 (£8.99) Red and dark fruits, dried green herbs and spice; big and warming (in a European sort of way) with freshness. Good.
Other related articles
Co-op Fairtrade Wines
Friday, 1 May 2015
Rias Baxas: Albariño Week
Five Rias Baxas wines from Cambridge Wine Merchants
Rias Baxas in Galicia on Spain's Alantic coast is home to the Albariño grape; Cambridge Wine Merchants stocks five of these citrusy, elderflower and, from today, is marking the start of Albariño week with in-store tastings.
Fresh, modern and rounded, Albariño matches well with Spanish tapas such as almonds, manchego, jamon and bread with olive oil.
Other related articles
Ramon Bilbao Dinner at Cambridge Hotel du Vin
Terras Gauda
Rias Baxas in Galicia on Spain's Alantic coast is home to the Albariño grape; Cambridge Wine Merchants stocks five of these citrusy, elderflower and, from today, is marking the start of Albariño week with in-store tastings.
Fresh, modern and rounded, Albariño matches well with Spanish tapas such as almonds, manchego, jamon and bread with olive oil.
Other related articles
Ramon Bilbao Dinner at Cambridge Hotel du Vin
Terras Gauda
Tuesday, 28 April 2015
Wine of the Month - April; Three BBQ Week Wines
Three food-friendly wines for picnics and barbecues
Summer is almost upon us and the end of May sees National Barbecue Week, apparently; here are three wines that are perfect for picnic and barbecue fare, as well indoor food.
Handily, all are screw-capped and match with strongly-flavoured foods, whether eaten indoors or out.
Esk Valley Riesling 2013 Hawkes Bay, NZ (£13.25 from independents) Germanic-style minerally Riesling; lifted nose of ripe stone fruits, lime zest, flinty slates. Zesty, fresh and mineral. Good.
Match with tuna tartare with chili and garlic or a rich paté.
Vidal Pinot Gris 2014 Hawkes Bay, NZ (£11.85 from independents) Alsace-style Pinot Gris with a kiwi freshness; ripe stone fruit and sweet spice. Fresh, pure and clean. Good.
Match with tarte flambee, choucroute and heart pork dishes.
Joseph Mellot Menetou-Salon Les Thureaux 2013 (£17.65 from independents ) expressive nose of cut-grass and citrus with a touch of flintiness; grapefruit and ripe gooseberry freshness and something more tropical. Pure and mineral. Good.
Match with goat's cheese salad
Other related articles
Two Picnic Wines From South West France
Six Summer Picnic Wines from Naked Wines
Summer Picnic Fizz
Summer is almost upon us and the end of May sees National Barbecue Week, apparently; here are three wines that are perfect for picnic and barbecue fare, as well indoor food.
Handily, all are screw-capped and match with strongly-flavoured foods, whether eaten indoors or out.
Esk Valley Riesling 2013 Hawkes Bay, NZ (£13.25 from independents) Germanic-style minerally Riesling; lifted nose of ripe stone fruits, lime zest, flinty slates. Zesty, fresh and mineral. Good.
Match with tuna tartare with chili and garlic or a rich paté.
Vidal Pinot Gris 2014 Hawkes Bay, NZ (£11.85 from independents) Alsace-style Pinot Gris with a kiwi freshness; ripe stone fruit and sweet spice. Fresh, pure and clean. Good.
Match with tarte flambee, choucroute and heart pork dishes.
Joseph Mellot Menetou-Salon Les Thureaux 2013 (£17.65 from independents ) expressive nose of cut-grass and citrus with a touch of flintiness; grapefruit and ripe gooseberry freshness and something more tropical. Pure and mineral. Good.
Match with goat's cheese salad
Other related articles
Two Picnic Wines From South West France
Six Summer Picnic Wines from Naked Wines
Summer Picnic Fizz
Wednesday, 4 March 2015
Wine of the Month - Three Supermarket Wines For Easter
Three easter wines from Tesco, Sainsbury's and Majestic
For Easter get-togethers, you want reliable crowd-pleasers that will appeal to a range of guests and match with set-piece meals like a roast dinner.
These wines have garnered various awards and recommendations from critics (albeit sometimes other vintages), so are a sure-fire set of winners.
Marques de Casa Concha Chardonnay 2012 (£11.99, Tesco)
What the producers say: From the Limarí Valley at the edge of the Atacama Desert; a region cooled by its proximity to the Pacific Ocean and significant drops in temperature after sunset.
What the producers say: One of the best lead ups to harvest on record; this is a truly delicious Australian red. This led to fruit with flavour intensity and acid structure not seen for a few years.
What I say: big, mid-level Aussie red full of chocolate, leather, plums and cherries with a cow-lick of sweetly toasty-oaky vanilla spice. Lots of fruit, sunshine and stuffing in here.
Match with roast red meat - lamb with rosemary and garlic or beef with horseradish sauce.
A Sticky End Noble Sauvignon Blanc 2012 (Majestic, £15.99 or mix & match 2 bottles to save 33%)
What the producers say: Made from Sauvignon Blanc grapes that have been allowed extra hang-time on the vine, giving them extra ripeness and promoting the onset of botrytis. Aged for 14 months in French oak.
What I say: golden, Sandy yellow with an intriguing aroma of rubbed sage, seaweed even, mingling with the guava, figs and gooseberry-lime jam. Sweet and syrupy, yet also refreshing - a sort of tropical sweet-sour spiced gingeriness.
For Easter get-togethers, you want reliable crowd-pleasers that will appeal to a range of guests and match with set-piece meals like a roast dinner.
These wines have garnered various awards and recommendations from critics (albeit sometimes other vintages), so are a sure-fire set of winners.
Marques de Casa Concha Chardonnay 2012 (£11.99, Tesco)
What the producers say: From the Limarí Valley at the edge of the Atacama Desert; a region cooled by its proximity to the Pacific Ocean and significant drops in temperature after sunset.
What I say: Toasty-oaky nose with blossom and sweet spice; sweet ripe tropical fruit. Fresh and precise ; mineral, saline and creamy-nutty with just a touch of hedonism. Harmonious and accomplished. Textbook oaky Chardie.
A versatile wine, match with salmon, creamy pasta or roast chicken.
De Bortoli Reserve Petite Sirah 2011 (£8.50, Sainsbury’s)A versatile wine, match with salmon, creamy pasta or roast chicken.
What the producers say: One of the best lead ups to harvest on record; this is a truly delicious Australian red. This led to fruit with flavour intensity and acid structure not seen for a few years.
What I say: big, mid-level Aussie red full of chocolate, leather, plums and cherries with a cow-lick of sweetly toasty-oaky vanilla spice. Lots of fruit, sunshine and stuffing in here.
Match with roast red meat - lamb with rosemary and garlic or beef with horseradish sauce.
A Sticky End Noble Sauvignon Blanc 2012 (Majestic, £15.99 or mix & match 2 bottles to save 33%)
What the producers say: Made from Sauvignon Blanc grapes that have been allowed extra hang-time on the vine, giving them extra ripeness and promoting the onset of botrytis. Aged for 14 months in French oak.
What I say: golden, Sandy yellow with an intriguing aroma of rubbed sage, seaweed even, mingling with the guava, figs and gooseberry-lime jam. Sweet and syrupy, yet also refreshing - a sort of tropical sweet-sour spiced gingeriness.
Match with fruit-based desserts such as Eton Mess or a fruit tart with Chantilly cream.
Other related articles
Monday, 9 February 2015
Wine of the Month: Wines For Valentine's Day
Three Champagnes for Valentine's Day
If you take Valentine's Day seriously, it has to include Champagne for a loved one. Here are three that will make the right statement.
Romantic - Pink Fizz: Lanson Rosé NV (The Co-op)
Yes it's pink and it's got bubbles, but this is serious not frivolous; a redcurrant-infused, orchard-fruited, leesy-biscuity Champagne; pale pink with great structure and a fine mousse.
Drink as an aperitif or match with king prawn vol-au-vents.
Elegant - Castelnau Blanc de Blancs 2002 (Spirited Wine)
A vintage Champagne made from only white grapes, this is as elegant and deeply desirable as a middle-aged Bryan Ferry. Fine, delicate and ethereal with citrus fruits, yellow peach and brioche. Assured, adept and complex, it doesn't have to try, it just is.
Match with grilled lemon sole, beurre blanc and courgettes.
Classy - Taittinger Brut Réserve NV (Majestic, Waitrose, Tesco)
A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, this is a classic Grande Marque Champagne; peach and acacia, fresh citrus, honey and brioche. Long, fresh finish.
Match with smoked salmon.
If you have to ask the price, then you are clearly not entering into the spirit of Valentine's Day, but details are:
Lanson Rosé NV (£37.99, reduced to £27.99 until Feb 27)
Champagne de Castelnau Blanc de Blancs 2002 (£40.80)
Taittinger Brut Réserve NV (£37)
Other related articles
Wine of the Month - February 2013
Wine of the Month - February 2012
If you take Valentine's Day seriously, it has to include Champagne for a loved one. Here are three that will make the right statement.
Romantic - Pink Fizz: Lanson Rosé NV (The Co-op)
Yes it's pink and it's got bubbles, but this is serious not frivolous; a redcurrant-infused, orchard-fruited, leesy-biscuity Champagne; pale pink with great structure and a fine mousse.
Drink as an aperitif or match with king prawn vol-au-vents.
Elegant - Castelnau Blanc de Blancs 2002 (Spirited Wine)
A vintage Champagne made from only white grapes, this is as elegant and deeply desirable as a middle-aged Bryan Ferry. Fine, delicate and ethereal with citrus fruits, yellow peach and brioche. Assured, adept and complex, it doesn't have to try, it just is.
Match with grilled lemon sole, beurre blanc and courgettes.
Classy - Taittinger Brut Réserve NV (Majestic, Waitrose, Tesco)
A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, this is a classic Grande Marque Champagne; peach and acacia, fresh citrus, honey and brioche. Long, fresh finish.
Match with smoked salmon.
If you have to ask the price, then you are clearly not entering into the spirit of Valentine's Day, but details are:
Lanson Rosé NV (£37.99, reduced to £27.99 until Feb 27)
Champagne de Castelnau Blanc de Blancs 2002 (£40.80)
Taittinger Brut Réserve NV (£37)
Other related articles
Wine of the Month - February 2013
Wine of the Month - February 2012
Wednesday, 3 December 2014
Four Christmas Wines From The Co-op
Four wines for Christmas from the Co-op
Christmas is a time of giving so, to share around the general goodwill to all men, get some wines from the Co-op.
Here are four great wines that will see you through any festive celebrations - if you're quick, you'll have time to stock up on them at reduced prices:
Fizz - The Co-operative Prosecco (£9.99 - reduced to £6.99 until Jan 3, 2015)
For a Christmas Day aperitif, Boxing Day pick-me-up or New Year's Eve celebration, this Prosecco is perfect. Elegant and fresh, precise and crisp, it shows ripe orchard fruits of apple, pear and white peach with a touch of leesy-almondiness.
The Main Event - Château Sénéjac 2009 (£16.99, reduced to £13.99 until Dec 31, 2014)
This Cru Bourgeois Bordeaux is an elegant classic and a great match for a traditional roast. With five years in bottle, it is drinking nicely now.
Purple with some brick red hints, complex aromas of cassis, pencil shavings and cigar box; dark berry fruit and cool mint, well-structured with fine but muscular tannins. Dense, concentrated and persistent.
A juicy red - Ogier Reserve Côtes du Rhône Rouge 2013 (£7.49, reduced to £5.49 until 31 Dec 2014)
If you like the sound of these, there are also special offers on:
Henri Clerc Pouilly-Fuisse (reduced from £14.99 to £12.99 until 31 Dec 2014)
Bollinger NV Gift Pack (reduced from £43.99 to £29.32 until 31 Dec 2014)
Lanson Champagne Gift Pack (reduced from £32.99 to £21.99 until 31 Dec 2014)
Christmas is a time of giving so, to share around the general goodwill to all men, get some wines from the Co-op.
Here are four great wines that will see you through any festive celebrations - if you're quick, you'll have time to stock up on them at reduced prices:
Fizz - The Co-operative Prosecco (£9.99 - reduced to £6.99 until Jan 3, 2015)
For a Christmas Day aperitif, Boxing Day pick-me-up or New Year's Eve celebration, this Prosecco is perfect. Elegant and fresh, precise and crisp, it shows ripe orchard fruits of apple, pear and white peach with a touch of leesy-almondiness.
The Main Event - Château Sénéjac 2009 (£16.99, reduced to £13.99 until Dec 31, 2014)
This Cru Bourgeois Bordeaux is an elegant classic and a great match for a traditional roast. With five years in bottle, it is drinking nicely now.
Purple with some brick red hints, complex aromas of cassis, pencil shavings and cigar box; dark berry fruit and cool mint, well-structured with fine but muscular tannins. Dense, concentrated and persistent.
---***---
Two good wines to keep in reserve for informal drinking or when visitors turn up
With starters - Casa Planeta Grecanico-Chardonnay 2013 (£9.99)
Ripe and rounded Sicilian white blend with orchard and tropical fruit; clean, fresh and easy-drinking with a savoury, persistent finish.
Ripe and rounded Sicilian white blend with orchard and tropical fruit; clean, fresh and easy-drinking with a savoury, persistent finish.
A juicy red - Ogier Reserve Côtes du Rhône Rouge 2013 (£7.49, reduced to £5.49 until 31 Dec 2014)
Juicy red and dark fruits with spice and perfumed violets. Supple texture.
---***---
If you like the sound of these, there are also special offers on:
Henri Clerc Pouilly-Fuisse (reduced from £14.99 to £12.99 until 31 Dec 2014)
Bollinger NV Gift Pack (reduced from £43.99 to £29.32 until 31 Dec 2014)
Lanson Champagne Gift Pack (reduced from £32.99 to £21.99 until 31 Dec 2014)
Wednesday, 19 November 2014
Wine of The Month: Three Christmas Languedoc Wines
Three Languedoc wines for Christmas
Languedoc wines make excellent Christmas drinking - big, spicy, food-friendly reds that match well with a roast dinner and all the trimmings.
Christmas is not a time to be taking risks; with so many people around the table, you need some serious crowd-pleasers that will keep everyone happy.
Domaine de Fontsèque 2012, Corbières (£11, M&S) a southern GSM+C blend of southern varieties, ripe dark fruits, freshness and a lick of toasty oak. Warming, hearty and spicy.
Château de Pennautier 2013 Cabardès (£7.95 The Wine Society, also at Majestic and Berry's) Another blend of generally southern French varieties, this wine is full of cassis, dark fruits, Christmas spice and even a touch of spruce pine.
It is substantial and warming, cut through with freshness and a slightly earthy character that certainly needs food.
Muscat de Saint Jean de Minervois, Vin Doux Naturel (£6.30, half-bottle, Tanners) roasted peaches and apricots, smothered in heather honey and dusted with sweet spice; rich and deliciously sweet, but also fresh and precise.
Match the reds with roast turkey with all the trimmings and sauces, whilst the sticky will work with crème brulee, lemon torte with Chantilly cream, or a chicken liver pate starter.
Other related articles
Two Co-op Reds For Christmas
South West France Wines Christmas Masterclass
Thursday, 13 March 2014
Wine of The Month - March
A wine and a sherry to match a seasonal tapa dish from Cambridge-based ¡Que rico! Tapas - also broadcast with Estefania Led Ramos on Cambridge105
Estefania's suggested tapa is marinated duck with sun-dried tomatoes; my job was to find a sherry and a wine to match.
With soy, balsamic vinegar and tomatoes, there are some strong flavours in this dish - so it needs a fairly robust wine to be able to stand up to it.
Sherry: Sanchez Romate Hermanos, Oloroso Don Jose Reserva Especiale NV, Jerez 18% 75cl £19.99 Cambridge Wine Merchants
This dark oloroso sherry ages oxidatively to give aromas of roasted chestnuts, raisins, salt, earth, caramel and leather; it starts broad and creamy then becomes long and linear with caramel and a juicy finish.
Wine: Bodegas Pittacum, Bierzo 'Tres Obispos' Rosada 2011 £10.99 Joseph Barnes Wines
Something of an unusual beast, this is a rosé made from the Mencia grape in Bierzo, a remote region of northwest Spain; it's a deep raspberry red in colour, with strawberry and raspberry fruit on the nose as well as something a little more unusual that I can only describe as "workshop" - a mix of swarfega, tyres and used engine oil. It's in no way unpleasant and rather intriguing.
On the palate, there is more red berry fruit, good acidity and a persistent, clean finish.
The recipe for the tapa is on Estefania's website.
Other related articles
¡Que rico! Tapas
Links
¡Que rico! Tapas - website
Cambridge Wine Merchants - website
Joseph Barnes Wines - website
Estefania's suggested tapa is marinated duck with sun-dried tomatoes; my job was to find a sherry and a wine to match.
With soy, balsamic vinegar and tomatoes, there are some strong flavours in this dish - so it needs a fairly robust wine to be able to stand up to it.
Sherry: Sanchez Romate Hermanos, Oloroso Don Jose Reserva Especiale NV, Jerez 18% 75cl £19.99 Cambridge Wine Merchants
This dark oloroso sherry ages oxidatively to give aromas of roasted chestnuts, raisins, salt, earth, caramel and leather; it starts broad and creamy then becomes long and linear with caramel and a juicy finish.
Wine: Bodegas Pittacum, Bierzo 'Tres Obispos' Rosada 2011 £10.99 Joseph Barnes Wines
Something of an unusual beast, this is a rosé made from the Mencia grape in Bierzo, a remote region of northwest Spain; it's a deep raspberry red in colour, with strawberry and raspberry fruit on the nose as well as something a little more unusual that I can only describe as "workshop" - a mix of swarfega, tyres and used engine oil. It's in no way unpleasant and rather intriguing.
On the palate, there is more red berry fruit, good acidity and a persistent, clean finish.
The recipe for the tapa is on Estefania's website.
Other related articles
¡Que rico! Tapas
Links
¡Que rico! Tapas - website
Cambridge Wine Merchants - website
Joseph Barnes Wines - website
Tuesday, 3 December 2013
Wine of The Month - December
With Christmas and the end of the year hoving into view, it's time to think about celebratory wines.
With that in mind, we have fizz (and plenty of it) in the form of a couple of guest wines. WineTrust 100 make a welcome return, and we have the wines of local resident Eugene Lismonde who set up a vineyard in South West France near his wife's childhood home.
To start - fizz
Taltarni Tache 2010 (£18, WineTrust 100) from cool-climate regions of Australia, a very classical, elegant and composed Champagne-style fizz - pale salmon pink, restrained yeasty-citrus nose; ripe white pear and white peach with redcurrant. Assertive, well-structured, linear acidity and leesiness. Savoury persistence on the finish
Really poised and precise, it is drinking nicely now, but will repay a few years' cellaring.
Tour de Belfort Crémant de Bordeaux Brut (£12.50, Tour de Belfort) Bordelais grapes, but Champenois method; elegant, crisp and refreshing and as good as many an entry-level Champagne.
The main event - Christmas Dinner
Henri Clos Marlborough Pinot Noir 2009 (£24.99, Joseph Barnes Wines) Combining New Zealand freshness and precision with classical European elegance - ripe, pure red fruits, elegance and a lick of oak. This is really lovely and worth every penny.
Domaine de Vedilhan Serica Viognier (£10.49, Bacchanalia) a Languedoc Viognier that sees a bit of time in oak; stone fruits and creaminess that will match well with roast turkey.
Go on then, just one more mince pie
Stanton & Killeen Rutherglen Muscat (£13.49 per half bottle, Noel Young Wines) solera-method Aussie sticky, this is a dark orangey-mahogany colour and very syrupy. Very full on so won't be phased by mince pies and Christmas pudding. Serve lightly chilled to emphasis the freshness.
Henriques & Henriques Bual Madeira 10yo (£18.99 per 50cl bottle, Cambridge Wine Merchants) delicious raisins, mixed fruit, roasted nuts and sweet spices - but with a refreshing acidity, a sort of Christmas pudding in a glass
Goes best on Christmas Day after you've stuffed yourself with turkey and sprouts, had your Christmas pudding and you can't face another mince pie; sip whilst staring contentedly into the fire - or watching the Dr Who Christmas Special as the Daleks try and conquer the universe again
Joseph Barnes Wines - website
Noel Young Wines - website
Tour de Belfort - website, twitter
Wine Trust 100 - website, twitter
Main image credit: http://www.mrwallpaper.com/wallpapers/Winter-Snowman.jpg
With that in mind, we have fizz (and plenty of it) in the form of a couple of guest wines. WineTrust 100 make a welcome return, and we have the wines of local resident Eugene Lismonde who set up a vineyard in South West France near his wife's childhood home.
To start - fizz
Taltarni Tache 2010 (£18, WineTrust 100) from cool-climate regions of Australia, a very classical, elegant and composed Champagne-style fizz - pale salmon pink, restrained yeasty-citrus nose; ripe white pear and white peach with redcurrant. Assertive, well-structured, linear acidity and leesiness. Savoury persistence on the finish
Really poised and precise, it is drinking nicely now, but will repay a few years' cellaring.
Tour de Belfort Crémant de Bordeaux Brut (£12.50, Tour de Belfort) Bordelais grapes, but Champenois method; elegant, crisp and refreshing and as good as many an entry-level Champagne.
The main event - Christmas Dinner
Henri Clos Marlborough Pinot Noir 2009 (£24.99, Joseph Barnes Wines) Combining New Zealand freshness and precision with classical European elegance - ripe, pure red fruits, elegance and a lick of oak. This is really lovely and worth every penny.
Domaine de Vedilhan Serica Viognier (£10.49, Bacchanalia) a Languedoc Viognier that sees a bit of time in oak; stone fruits and creaminess that will match well with roast turkey.
Go on then, just one more mince pie
Stanton & Killeen Rutherglen Muscat (£13.49 per half bottle, Noel Young Wines) solera-method Aussie sticky, this is a dark orangey-mahogany colour and very syrupy. Very full on so won't be phased by mince pies and Christmas pudding. Serve lightly chilled to emphasis the freshness.
Henriques & Henriques Bual Madeira 10yo (£18.99 per 50cl bottle, Cambridge Wine Merchants) delicious raisins, mixed fruit, roasted nuts and sweet spices - but with a refreshing acidity, a sort of Christmas pudding in a glass
Goes best on Christmas Day after you've stuffed yourself with turkey and sprouts, had your Christmas pudding and you can't face another mince pie; sip whilst staring contentedly into the fire - or watching the Dr Who Christmas Special as the Daleks try and conquer the universe again
Links
Cambridge Wine Merchants - websiteJoseph Barnes Wines - website
Noel Young Wines - website
Tour de Belfort - website, twitter
Wine Trust 100 - website, twitter
Main image credit: http://www.mrwallpaper.com/wallpapers/Winter-Snowman.jpg
Saturday, 2 November 2013
Wine of the Month - November
November brings bonfire night - a smokey, spicy, chilly celebration of fireworks, oohs and aaahs. It is also the month of Remembrance Day and Movember.
The wines from our regular Cambridge merchants are, like many a fuzzy upper lip, bigger and fuller this month - and we have not one but two guest appearances - firstly from newly-established WineTrust100, plus a welcome return from Beaujolais and Beyond.
We start, however, with an off-piste natural wine from Joseph Barnes.
Vina Almate Tempranillo 2012, VdlT Castilla y Leon (£10.50 Joseph Barnes Wines)
If brambly, vanilla Spanish Tempranillo is a style you are familiar with, don't expect to find it in this elegant-yet-rugged natural wine.
Dark in the glass, the nose gives little away, except perhaps for a touch of dark fruit and funk.
The palate is sharp and refreshing, with pure black-cherry and dark berry fruit, an elusive savouriness and a hint of fermented fruit.
It's a curious wine - as natural wines often are - yet strangely alluring. Intense, focused and uncompromising, this is something of a punk wine; like the mohican-ed toughs who used to hang out in my East Midlands town centre on a Saturday when I was growing up, it demands your attention and feels edgy, yet underneath the scowl, spikes and studs, it's actually very civilised.
Match with something equally edgy - such as steak tartare. Also beetroot with cream cheese.
Domaine du Diamant Noir, Cotes du Rhone 2012 (£8.99, Cambridge Wine Merchants)
The start of autumn can be said to be heralded by opening your first Cotes du Rhone - warming, dark and spicy, it is perfectly suited to hearty stews and gamey dishes.
This Domaine du Diamant Noir from the southern Rhone is a blend of Carignan, Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault - with dark berry fruit and some spice on the nose, it has a classic, southern Rhone profile.
On the palate there is more plummy fruit, sweet peppery vanilla spice and fresh acidity with perfectly ripe tannins underpinned by grippy savouriness - classy and elegant, if perhaps a little lacking in concentration.
Match with roast beef dinners and hearty stews.
Sottano Malbec 2012, Argentina (£9.99 Noel Young Wines)
From the Llujan de Cuyo region of Argentina, where vineyard altitudes are from 800m - 1,100m giving wines with deep colour and ripeness with fresh acidity.
Malbec is Argentina's signature grape - historically from Bordeaux, it is also grown in Cahors where it is known as Cot.
Typically quite flamboyant, if a little rustic, Malbec often feels like it needs a bit of a wash and brush-up to be acceptable in polite company - it can be a Bruce Springsteen of a wine.
This dark, seductive Sottano, however, is more of a Bryan Ferry - with dark fruit, spiciness and a chocolatey texture underpinned by a fresh acidity and good savouriness, it is well-groomed and classy.
Don't be afraid to decant - and serve with the best Argentine beef you can find.
Bodegas Borsao, Tinto 2011, Campo de Borja, Spain - (£5.99, Wine Trust 100)
The first guest wine this month is from Wine Trust 100, a new wine retailer, set up by three local Masters of Wine - Sarah Abbott from Bedford, John Hoskins who runs The Old Bridge in Huntingdon and Nick Adams who lives in Cambridgeshire.
This Spanish Garnacha from Bodegas Borsao is a classy crowd-pleaser - with a nose of morello cherries, plummy fruit, liquorice, leather, vanilla and spice.
The palate is juicy and mouthfilling, with a lovely sour-cherry acidity, more plummy and dark berry fruit with sweet vanilla, spice and roughed-up herbs.
The texture is soft and smooth, with some gentle grip developing on the finish.
Match with darker game, such as pheasant stuffed with apricots, or spicy sausages.
2011 Chénas Cuvée Tradition (£11.50, Beaujolais and Beyond) I was so impressed with the guest Beaujolais from Beaujolais and Beyond last month that I've included another one this time.
This is a textbook Beaujolais cru - purple in the glass with dark berry fruit, the palate shows dark fruit and cinnamon spice. Elegant and precise with good, food-friendly sour-cherry acidity, lovely tannins and good finish.
Match with lighter game such as duck, partridge or a game casserole.
Links
Beaujolais and Beyond - website
Cambridge Wine Merchants - website
Joseph Barnes Wines - website
Noel Young Wines - website
Wine Trust 100 - website, twitter
Main image credit: https://www.makewav.es/blog/180715/bonfirenight
The wines from our regular Cambridge merchants are, like many a fuzzy upper lip, bigger and fuller this month - and we have not one but two guest appearances - firstly from newly-established WineTrust100, plus a welcome return from Beaujolais and Beyond.
We start, however, with an off-piste natural wine from Joseph Barnes.
Vina Almate Tempranillo 2012, VdlT Castilla y Leon (£10.50 Joseph Barnes Wines)
If brambly, vanilla Spanish Tempranillo is a style you are familiar with, don't expect to find it in this elegant-yet-rugged natural wine.
Dark in the glass, the nose gives little away, except perhaps for a touch of dark fruit and funk.
The palate is sharp and refreshing, with pure black-cherry and dark berry fruit, an elusive savouriness and a hint of fermented fruit.
It's a curious wine - as natural wines often are - yet strangely alluring. Intense, focused and uncompromising, this is something of a punk wine; like the mohican-ed toughs who used to hang out in my East Midlands town centre on a Saturday when I was growing up, it demands your attention and feels edgy, yet underneath the scowl, spikes and studs, it's actually very civilised.
Match with something equally edgy - such as steak tartare. Also beetroot with cream cheese.
Domaine du Diamant Noir, Cotes du Rhone 2012 (£8.99, Cambridge Wine Merchants)
The start of autumn can be said to be heralded by opening your first Cotes du Rhone - warming, dark and spicy, it is perfectly suited to hearty stews and gamey dishes.
This Domaine du Diamant Noir from the southern Rhone is a blend of Carignan, Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault - with dark berry fruit and some spice on the nose, it has a classic, southern Rhone profile.
On the palate there is more plummy fruit, sweet peppery vanilla spice and fresh acidity with perfectly ripe tannins underpinned by grippy savouriness - classy and elegant, if perhaps a little lacking in concentration.
Match with roast beef dinners and hearty stews.
Sottano Malbec 2012, Argentina (£9.99 Noel Young Wines)
From the Llujan de Cuyo region of Argentina, where vineyard altitudes are from 800m - 1,100m giving wines with deep colour and ripeness with fresh acidity.
Malbec is Argentina's signature grape - historically from Bordeaux, it is also grown in Cahors where it is known as Cot.
Typically quite flamboyant, if a little rustic, Malbec often feels like it needs a bit of a wash and brush-up to be acceptable in polite company - it can be a Bruce Springsteen of a wine.
This dark, seductive Sottano, however, is more of a Bryan Ferry - with dark fruit, spiciness and a chocolatey texture underpinned by a fresh acidity and good savouriness, it is well-groomed and classy.
Don't be afraid to decant - and serve with the best Argentine beef you can find.
Bodegas Borsao, Tinto 2011, Campo de Borja, Spain - (£5.99, Wine Trust 100)
The first guest wine this month is from Wine Trust 100, a new wine retailer, set up by three local Masters of Wine - Sarah Abbott from Bedford, John Hoskins who runs The Old Bridge in Huntingdon and Nick Adams who lives in Cambridgeshire.
This Spanish Garnacha from Bodegas Borsao is a classy crowd-pleaser - with a nose of morello cherries, plummy fruit, liquorice, leather, vanilla and spice.
The palate is juicy and mouthfilling, with a lovely sour-cherry acidity, more plummy and dark berry fruit with sweet vanilla, spice and roughed-up herbs.
The texture is soft and smooth, with some gentle grip developing on the finish.
Match with darker game, such as pheasant stuffed with apricots, or spicy sausages.
2011 Chénas Cuvée Tradition (£11.50, Beaujolais and Beyond) I was so impressed with the guest Beaujolais from Beaujolais and Beyond last month that I've included another one this time.
This is a textbook Beaujolais cru - purple in the glass with dark berry fruit, the palate shows dark fruit and cinnamon spice. Elegant and precise with good, food-friendly sour-cherry acidity, lovely tannins and good finish.
Match with lighter game such as duck, partridge or a game casserole.
Links
Beaujolais and Beyond - website
Cambridge Wine Merchants - website
Joseph Barnes Wines - website
Noel Young Wines - website
Wine Trust 100 - website, twitter
Main image credit: https://www.makewav.es/blog/180715/bonfirenight
Wednesday, 2 October 2013
Wine of the Month - October
October is a somewhat confused time of year - the only month that can bring summer-like heat, damp autumnal chill and wintry darkness.
At this time of year, foods are gamey with intense sauces which means big wines with gamey, vegetal aromas.
This month, we also have a seasonally-appropriate guest entry from Norwich-based Beaujolais specialist, Beaujolais and Beyond
For sunny days Orballo Albarino, Rias Baxas (£10.49, Bacchanalia)
From north western Spain, this is made from the Albarino grape and similar to a summery vinho verde from across the border in Portugal.
Dark sandy yellow in the glass, there are aromas of citrus fruit and melon skin.
The palate is zesty with ripe citrus fruit, pineapple and yellow apricot, with fresh acidity.
Characterful more than elegant, it is bigger and fuller than the traditionally light vinho verde and would match with white fish, quenelles in a creamy sauce or chicken in a morel and sherry sauce.
For chilly days Domaine de la Plaigne, 2011, Régnié (£11.30, Beaujolais and Beyond)
Like Chablis to the north, southern Burgundy's Beaujolais region is a once over-hyped region that is now ripe for a revival.
Made from the Gamay grape, Beaujolais does not aspire to the complexity of great Pinot Noir, for sure, but when well-made can show an alluring elegance.
Translucent purple in the glass, there are aromas of red and black cherry.
The palate shows a real purity of cherry and plum fruit and fresh, prominent acidity with real elegance and precision - this is a really lovely wine. Good.
With plenty of acidity, low tannins and pure fruit, it is a highly-versatile food wine that can stand up to stronger sauces - match with autumnal foods such as duck with cherry sauce or venison with red-wine jus.
For wintry evenings Silvern 'Greenock' Shiraz, Barossa 2011 (£9.25, Noel Young Wines)
Made by Noel's partner at Magpie Estate in Australia's Barossa Valley, this is a cancelled order offered at a bargain price.
Dark fruits, with a warming, slightly baked character, roasted spices and a slap of leather, held together by a prominent acidity.
Soft texture and savouriness, somewhat port-like.
With roast dinners Lavinyeta Puntiapart* 2011 Emporda, Spain (£14.99 CambridgeWine Merchants)
An unusual blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Samso (aka Carignan), this is dark purple in the glass, with sliced green bell peppers and pencil shavings on the nose.
There is lots of dark plummy, black cherry fruit and toasty-oak spiciness on the palate, cut through with fresh acidity and underpinned by perfectly-ripe tannins.
Long and savoury with an inky texture and a pleasant firmness on the finish, this is an extremely accomplished wine indeed. Very Good.
For days of mist and mellow fruitfulness Jean-Luc Matha, Cuvee Lairis, Marcillac (£11.50 Joseph Barnes Wines)
From south west France, this is made from the Fer Servadou grape - "fer" being a reference not to iron, but to a "feral" character of the grape.
Bright ruby purple, with initially a slight cabbagey-sulphurous aromas on the nose (often actually a sign of low added sulphur), below which are ripe strawberries and some leather.
Pure, precise red and black cherry fruit, peppery spice and fresh linear acidity.
Very elegant, with soft tannins, medium-length, some persistence and a clean finish - quite different and very interesting. Good.
Match with in-season game, especially pheasant or hare.
Other related articles
More on Beaujolais - BoJo-Lé
Wine of the month archive
Links
Bacchanalia - website
Beaujolais and Beyond - website
Cambridge Wine Merchants - website
Joseph Barnes Wines - website
Noel Young Wines - website
Main image credit: http://images.fineartamerica.com/images-medium-large/pheasant-shooting-henry-thomas-alken.jpg
Sunday, 8 September 2013
Wine of The Month - September

September means back-to-school time - neither quite the end of the summer weather, nor yet fully autumnal, it is the start of a gentle slide into gradually cooler weather, shorter days and general decline.
But with an Indian Summer still a distinct possibility, we need a range of wines for all potential outcomes.
Legaris Verdejo Rueda 2012 (£7.99, Noel Young Wines)
Spain may be generally better known for oaky reds, but this is a good, fresh, crisp white from Rueda, to the north west of Madrid.
The secret to the steely crispness (and relatively low alcohol level of 12%) is the combined effects of altitude (between 600m – 800m) the influence of the river Duero and night-harvesting of the grapes to maintain freshness.
Verdejo originated in north Africa but was brought to this part of Spain hundreds of years ago and is now associated with the area - it is aromatic, like a Sauvignon Blanc, but a bit more textured.
With a steely acidity, green apple fruit, aromatic notes and persistence, it's a good alternative to Sauvignon if you are looking for something similar-but-different.
Crisp enough for aperitif, food matches are as per Sauvignon - goat’s cheese salad, grilled vegetables or seafood.
La Boussole Pinot Noir 2011 (£9.25, Joseph Barnes Wines)
One would be forgiven for expecting a Pinot Noir with a French name to be from Burgundy; however this is actally from Montelimar in Ardeche - an area of the south of France better known for its nougat than its Pinots Noirs.
As with the Verdejo, the wine benefits from an unusually moderate microclimate that favours the grape's preference for cooler climates.
Pinot is a good autumnal wine for various reasons - it's one of the lighter reds, and matches well with game which is just coming into season.
This wine is light and approachable with cherry fruit – a good easy-drinker, it will match with food such as duck or leg of lamb, or can be sipped, slightly chilled, in the garden on a hotter day.
Tenuta Vitanza Volare 2009 Toscano Rosso (£8.99, Bacchanalia)
A Sangiovese more akin to Brunello's style of soft tannins and ripe fruit than the challenging Chianti style, this shows lots of ripe fruit on first opening.
With aeration, it becomes more distinctly Italian - with dark cherry fruit, a rasp of acidity, some spice and a firmness on the finish.
Match with rich beef dishes, such as bolognese or meatballs.
Domaine Gayda Syrah 2011 (£8.99, Cambridge Wine Merchants) A Syrah from Languedoc, this is geographically European, the Old World, but from a sunny cornerand comes with a touch of New World swagger to it.
It’s big and ripe, with lots of sweet dark fruit, but also some complex spiciness, acidity and savouriness - a classy crowd-pleaser; good concentration and poise.
Match with roasted red meat or hearty stews with a bit of spice and some root vegetables.
Other related articles
Wine of The Month archive
Links
Bacchanalia - website
Cambridge Wine Merchants - website
Joseph Barnes Wines - website
Noel Young Wines - website
Main image credit: website
Monday, 1 July 2013
Wine of The Month - July
July - the height of summer before the August break. Or at least that's what we hope for; picnics and garden parties, lazy summer Sundays and long evenings, barbecues and salads.
Summer foods are lighter and we need wines to match - this means generally whites, with the odd barbecue red.
Umbrele Sauvignon Blanc, Romania - Bacchanalia (£6.49)
I used to visit Romania regularly on business - I never fell in love with Bucharest as a city, but I quickly became a fan of the wines there; mostly well-made, modern food wines with plenty of fruit.
This entry-level Sauvignon is in much the same vein - lots of ripe tropical fruit expression, good acidity and a touch of zestiness.
With its zingy freshness, it will work well as an aperitif, with mixed anti-pasti, grilled fish or roast white meat.
An unexpected twist is some late harvest character that adds rich fullness and atypical aromas of ripe peaches, apricots and galia melon over the more-usual nettles and gooseberries.
If you are bored of Sauvignon, or like the idea of something different, this is definitely worth a try - and an absolute bargain to boot.
Esporao Reserva Branco 2011, Portugal - Cambridge Wine Merchants (£11.95)
Historically known for its ports, Portugal has been on the cusp of receiving recognition for its table wines, both reds and whites, for a long time now.
The country's most famous white is vinho verde - a very light and refreshing wine from the north. This Esporao from Alentejo region is, however, quite different and rather more ambitious.
On first opening, it has lots of everything - ripe tropical fruit, sweet spice, florality and toasty new oak; a bit like you ordered the entire menu.
But with some aeration, it all starts to fall into place - the oakiness settles down and is matched by a lovely streak of acidity with good savoury depth and pure fruit expression.
Precise, elegant and balanced, this is a lovely wine with plenty of aging potential. It has an IWC Trophy and featured in Olly Smith's Top 50 Portuguese Wines.
Jancis Robinson, reviewing the 2007, notes it is more Rhone-esque than Portuguese and almost impossible to identify blind - which should make for some interesting dinner party discussions.
Match with roast white meats or sea bass.
Bodegas Borsao 'Monte Oton' Campo de Borja Garnacha, Spain - Noel Young Wines (£5.99)
This Spanish red is a perfect barbecue wine or picnic sipper - it's sealed with a screw cap and has lots of juicy, food friendly acidity.
Spain is traditionally home to dusty, chunky reds, but this is grown at altitude on north-facing slopes for freshness.
It is full of expressive aromas of morello cherries, plummy fruit, liquorice, leather, vanilla and spice.
The palate is juicy and mouthfilling, with a lovely sour-cherry acidity, more plummy and dark berry fruit with sweet vanilla, spice and roughed-up herbs.
Another summer bargain - match with mixed anti-pasti or barbecued meats.
Other related articles
Wine of the Month archive
Links
Bacchanalia - website, twitter
Cambridge Wine Merchants - website, twitter
Noel Young Wines - website, twitter
Esporao - website, twitter
Main image credit: http://www.ub.indiana.edu/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/summer-sun.gif
Summer foods are lighter and we need wines to match - this means generally whites, with the odd barbecue red.
Umbrele Sauvignon Blanc, Romania - Bacchanalia (£6.49)
I used to visit Romania regularly on business - I never fell in love with Bucharest as a city, but I quickly became a fan of the wines there; mostly well-made, modern food wines with plenty of fruit.
This entry-level Sauvignon is in much the same vein - lots of ripe tropical fruit expression, good acidity and a touch of zestiness.
With its zingy freshness, it will work well as an aperitif, with mixed anti-pasti, grilled fish or roast white meat.
An unexpected twist is some late harvest character that adds rich fullness and atypical aromas of ripe peaches, apricots and galia melon over the more-usual nettles and gooseberries.
If you are bored of Sauvignon, or like the idea of something different, this is definitely worth a try - and an absolute bargain to boot.
Esporao Reserva Branco 2011, Portugal - Cambridge Wine Merchants (£11.95)
Historically known for its ports, Portugal has been on the cusp of receiving recognition for its table wines, both reds and whites, for a long time now.
The country's most famous white is vinho verde - a very light and refreshing wine from the north. This Esporao from Alentejo region is, however, quite different and rather more ambitious.
On first opening, it has lots of everything - ripe tropical fruit, sweet spice, florality and toasty new oak; a bit like you ordered the entire menu.
But with some aeration, it all starts to fall into place - the oakiness settles down and is matched by a lovely streak of acidity with good savoury depth and pure fruit expression.
Precise, elegant and balanced, this is a lovely wine with plenty of aging potential. It has an IWC Trophy and featured in Olly Smith's Top 50 Portuguese Wines.
Jancis Robinson, reviewing the 2007, notes it is more Rhone-esque than Portuguese and almost impossible to identify blind - which should make for some interesting dinner party discussions.
Match with roast white meats or sea bass.
Bodegas Borsao 'Monte Oton' Campo de Borja Garnacha, Spain - Noel Young Wines (£5.99)
This Spanish red is a perfect barbecue wine or picnic sipper - it's sealed with a screw cap and has lots of juicy, food friendly acidity.
Spain is traditionally home to dusty, chunky reds, but this is grown at altitude on north-facing slopes for freshness.
It is full of expressive aromas of morello cherries, plummy fruit, liquorice, leather, vanilla and spice.
The palate is juicy and mouthfilling, with a lovely sour-cherry acidity, more plummy and dark berry fruit with sweet vanilla, spice and roughed-up herbs.
Another summer bargain - match with mixed anti-pasti or barbecued meats.
Other related articles
Wine of the Month archive
Links
Bacchanalia - website, twitter
Cambridge Wine Merchants - website, twitter
Noel Young Wines - website, twitter
Esporao - website, twitter
Main image credit: http://www.ub.indiana.edu/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/summer-sun.gif
Sunday, 5 May 2013
Wine of The Month - May
Named after the Greek goddess Maia, May is the month when spring turns into summer - or should do, at least.
With two bank holidays in the month, opportunities for leisurely eating outside should be plentiful - and in case we get the inevitable bank holiday wash-out, there are also some reds.
This month, we also have a guest entry from Waitrose.
Cave de Lugny Sparkling Burgundy Blanc de Blancs NV Crémant de Bourgogne (£12.99, Waitrose - 25% off until May 21st)
Made by the traditional (i.e. Champenois) method, this cremant de Bourgogne is made from 100% Chardonnay.
The grapes are from the Maconnais region of southern Burgundy - a significantly warmer climate than Champagne, several hours' drive to the north, meaning more ripeness.
On pouring, it foams enthusiastically; sandy yellow in the glass, there are aromas of ripe pear and toasty leesy aromas and a hint of sweet spice.
On the palate, there is ripe, white pear fruit and a fine mousse. The acidity is refreshing with a leesy biscuitiness and a persistent finish.
Elegant and approachable, this is a classy fizz with a sunny disposition.
Serve as an aperitif or match with shellfish, choucroute or soft white cheese such as brie.
Vina Leyda 'Kadun Vineyard' Sauvignon Gris, Chile (£11.99, Noel Young Wines)
Sauvignon Gris is a relatively unusual mutation of the more familiar Sauvignon Blanc - it shares Sauvignon's linear acidity and minerality, but is less herbaceously aromatic.
The grapes for this varietal Sauvignon Gris are cooled by sea breezes in Chile's Leyda Valley, leading to long, slow ripening and more complexity as a result.
Bright sandy yellow, touch of flint and green pepper on the nose.
Linear, mouthfilling citrus acidity and good minerality. Ripe pear fruit cut through with fresh acidity, hints of honeydew melon and green nettles.
Clean, minerally finish, fresh, balanced and elegant; really good, versatile food wine. Match with fish dishes or light starters.
La Petite Syrah du Mas Montel, 2011, Pays du Gard (£8.99, Joseph Barnes Wines)
Mas Montel is based near Montpellier on the French south coast, whilst Petite Syrah is a cross of two southern French grapes, the noble Syrah with the rough-and-tumble Durif.
Translucent ruby in the glass, there are ripe red fruits on the palate and some warming sweet spice.
With just 12.5% alcohol, this is quite a light red; the texture is soft with fresh acidity, the finish gentle and warming.
Match with a plate of mixed anti-pasti; mozzarella, salami and roasted vegetables, ideally served in the garden on a warm, lazy evening.
Grignon Monastier Shiraz 2012, Pays d'Oc (£7.99, Bacchanalia)
From the vibrant Languedoc region of southern France, this wine is unusual in being labelled a Shiraz.
Firstly, because the French name for this grape is Syrah (Shiraz is generally its New-World name) and secondly because the tradition in France is to label by place of origin, rather than variety.
Dark purple in the glass, there are lots of ripe, dark berry aromas on the nose, with hints of sweet spice.
On the palate, there is black cherry and elderberry fruit; the texture is pleasantly soft and slightly inky with a touch of firmness and persistence on the finish.
With fresh acidity and low tannins, this is an easy drinker that will match strongly-flavoured foods, such as leg of lamb with a Mediterranean spice-and-citrus rub.
Bodegas Neo Ribera del Duero Disco 2011, Ribera Del Duero (£12.99, Cambridge Wine Merchants)
Just up the road from Rioja, Ribera Del Duero is the modern wine miracle of Spain, and produces wines from the same principle red grape - Tempranillo - but in a very different style on a wide, high plateau.
Ribera del Duero's fierce continental climate, tempered by altitude to give a long growing season, results in intense, concentrated wines with a lively acidity.
The label features a vinyl LP (Radiohead's The Bends, apparently)and I can't help hoping the millennial vintage featured Pulp's Disco 2000.
Dark, almost opaque, in the glass, there are aromas of bramble fruit, pencil shavings and complex oaky spice.
The palate shows rich dark fruits, chocolateyness and some bitter herbs; the texture is soft, mouthfilling and velvety with a touch of vibrant mintiness; it feels well-structured and poised.
Long and savoury on the palate, with firm, perfectly ripe tannins on the finish. Very classy indeed - match with plain roast red meat or steak.
Links
Bacchanalia - website
Cambridge Wine Merchants - website
Joseph Barnes Wines - website
Noel Young Wines - website
Waitrose - website, twitter
With two bank holidays in the month, opportunities for leisurely eating outside should be plentiful - and in case we get the inevitable bank holiday wash-out, there are also some reds.
This month, we also have a guest entry from Waitrose.
Cave de Lugny Sparkling Burgundy Blanc de Blancs NV Crémant de Bourgogne (£12.99, Waitrose - 25% off until May 21st)
Made by the traditional (i.e. Champenois) method, this cremant de Bourgogne is made from 100% Chardonnay.
The grapes are from the Maconnais region of southern Burgundy - a significantly warmer climate than Champagne, several hours' drive to the north, meaning more ripeness.
On pouring, it foams enthusiastically; sandy yellow in the glass, there are aromas of ripe pear and toasty leesy aromas and a hint of sweet spice.
On the palate, there is ripe, white pear fruit and a fine mousse. The acidity is refreshing with a leesy biscuitiness and a persistent finish.
Elegant and approachable, this is a classy fizz with a sunny disposition.
Serve as an aperitif or match with shellfish, choucroute or soft white cheese such as brie.
Vina Leyda 'Kadun Vineyard' Sauvignon Gris, Chile (£11.99, Noel Young Wines)
Sauvignon Gris is a relatively unusual mutation of the more familiar Sauvignon Blanc - it shares Sauvignon's linear acidity and minerality, but is less herbaceously aromatic.
The grapes for this varietal Sauvignon Gris are cooled by sea breezes in Chile's Leyda Valley, leading to long, slow ripening and more complexity as a result.
Bright sandy yellow, touch of flint and green pepper on the nose.
Linear, mouthfilling citrus acidity and good minerality. Ripe pear fruit cut through with fresh acidity, hints of honeydew melon and green nettles.
Clean, minerally finish, fresh, balanced and elegant; really good, versatile food wine. Match with fish dishes or light starters.
La Petite Syrah du Mas Montel, 2011, Pays du Gard (£8.99, Joseph Barnes Wines)
Mas Montel is based near Montpellier on the French south coast, whilst Petite Syrah is a cross of two southern French grapes, the noble Syrah with the rough-and-tumble Durif.
Translucent ruby in the glass, there are ripe red fruits on the palate and some warming sweet spice.
With just 12.5% alcohol, this is quite a light red; the texture is soft with fresh acidity, the finish gentle and warming.
Match with a plate of mixed anti-pasti; mozzarella, salami and roasted vegetables, ideally served in the garden on a warm, lazy evening.
Grignon Monastier Shiraz 2012, Pays d'Oc (£7.99, Bacchanalia)
From the vibrant Languedoc region of southern France, this wine is unusual in being labelled a Shiraz.
Firstly, because the French name for this grape is Syrah (Shiraz is generally its New-World name) and secondly because the tradition in France is to label by place of origin, rather than variety.
Dark purple in the glass, there are lots of ripe, dark berry aromas on the nose, with hints of sweet spice.
On the palate, there is black cherry and elderberry fruit; the texture is pleasantly soft and slightly inky with a touch of firmness and persistence on the finish.
With fresh acidity and low tannins, this is an easy drinker that will match strongly-flavoured foods, such as leg of lamb with a Mediterranean spice-and-citrus rub.
Bodegas Neo Ribera del Duero Disco 2011, Ribera Del Duero (£12.99, Cambridge Wine Merchants)
Just up the road from Rioja, Ribera Del Duero is the modern wine miracle of Spain, and produces wines from the same principle red grape - Tempranillo - but in a very different style on a wide, high plateau.
Ribera del Duero's fierce continental climate, tempered by altitude to give a long growing season, results in intense, concentrated wines with a lively acidity.
The label features a vinyl LP (Radiohead's The Bends, apparently)and I can't help hoping the millennial vintage featured Pulp's Disco 2000.
Dark, almost opaque, in the glass, there are aromas of bramble fruit, pencil shavings and complex oaky spice.
The palate shows rich dark fruits, chocolateyness and some bitter herbs; the texture is soft, mouthfilling and velvety with a touch of vibrant mintiness; it feels well-structured and poised.
Long and savoury on the palate, with firm, perfectly ripe tannins on the finish. Very classy indeed - match with plain roast red meat or steak.
Links
Bacchanalia - website
Cambridge Wine Merchants - website
Joseph Barnes Wines - website
Noel Young Wines - website
Waitrose - website, twitter
Saturday, 6 April 2013
Wine of the Month - April
April is the first full month of spring - a time when the grapes for this year's wine will start to burst as buds on the vines.
It is also the month of Earth Day, St George's Day and the London marathon, so take your pick. Also, April Fools Day and the cruellest month, according to TS Eliot.
St George himself was a Greek who became an officer in the Roman army before slaying the dragon and achieving sainthood. As he is the patron saint of shepherds, it is only appropriate that we should celebrate his feast day with lamb and some appropriate wines.
Bodega Mengoba, Breza Blanco 2011 (£11.35 Joseph Barnes Wines)
From the Bierzo region in northwest Spain, the vines (mainly Godello and Doña Blanca) are grown at an altitude of 550m giving both freshness and depth to the wine.
Vinified in a single barrel and aged in 500 litre foudres, there is some subtle oak influence; a pale lemon in colour with greenish tints. Scents of lemon-edged chalky fruit.
On the palate, fresh with a pronounced minerality. Bright, creamy tropical fruit flavours and rounded in texture. The finish is lingering
Columbia Crest, Two Vines Cabernet Savignon, Washington State (£6.99 Bacchanalia
This US Cabernet Sauvignon is from Washington State - much further north than California with a more moderate-climate feel as a result.
Ruby in the glass, it has aromas of plummy fruit, mocha and oaky spice.
The palate shows ripe bramble fruit with good acidity and a lick of spicy, toasty oak; it feels soft and harmonious but with good savoury underpinnings and a firmness on the finish.
Handsome and well-groomed in an all-American sort of way, this is Richie Cunningham - no rough edges, no hidden depths, just a good ol' boy.
A bin-end in limited quantities, it's just £6.99 and something of a bargain.
Magpie Estate 'The Thief' Mourvedre-Grenache Rosé (£11.95 Noel Young Wines)
From Noel's own vineyard in Australia, this is not so much a rose wine as a red without tannins, and should be served no more than slightly chilled.
And with the sun finally coming out and temperatures possibly into double figures this weekend, it's time finally to shake off the winter funk and party like it's spring.
Made from the classic Languedoc grapes of Mourvedre and Grenache, with a touch of Cab Franc thrown in, it is a cranberry-red in the glass and has a smokey spice and soft red fruits on the nose.
The palate is mouthfilling with more soft red fruit and a wonderfully food-friendly savouriness. Perfect for these sunny-but-still-chilly days.
Match with picnic food and especially cold meats, or any spicy food with tomato.
La Chamiza Malbec 2012 Mendoza (£8.50, Cambridge Wine Merchants)
And if the reappearance of the sun has convinced you to dust down the barbecue, this spicy Argentinian red from Cambridge Wine Merchants is just perfect.
Dark purple in the glass, there is smokey spice and ripe plummy fruit on the nose.
The palate is ripe and spicy, with more pure plummy, black cherry fruit, fresh acidity and savouriness. Long on the palate and well balanced, the tannins are mouthfilling and perfectly ripe with a pleasant savoury firmness on the finish.
This is a wine geek's barbecue red - ripe, fruity and quaffable, yet supremely well-made from really high-quality fruit.
Match with some smokey barbecue meats or, failing that, peppery steak.
Recommended Wine
The Malbec from Cambridge Wine Merchants and the Magpie Estate "The Thief" both score highly as well-made wines, but my recommendation this month is the lovely Two Vines Cab - available only in limited quantities, it is a handsome and cultured American at a bargain price.
Other related articles
Wine of The Month archive
Links
Bacchanalia - http://www.winegod.co.uk/
Columbia Crest - website, twitter
Image credit: St George cross: http://beardedgit.com/?p=423, Richie Cunningham: http://www.retrocrush.com/archive2008/redheads/
It is also the month of Earth Day, St George's Day and the London marathon, so take your pick. Also, April Fools Day and the cruellest month, according to TS Eliot.
St George himself was a Greek who became an officer in the Roman army before slaying the dragon and achieving sainthood. As he is the patron saint of shepherds, it is only appropriate that we should celebrate his feast day with lamb and some appropriate wines.
Bodega Mengoba, Breza Blanco 2011 (£11.35 Joseph Barnes Wines)
From the Bierzo region in northwest Spain, the vines (mainly Godello and Doña Blanca) are grown at an altitude of 550m giving both freshness and depth to the wine.
Vinified in a single barrel and aged in 500 litre foudres, there is some subtle oak influence; a pale lemon in colour with greenish tints. Scents of lemon-edged chalky fruit.
On the palate, fresh with a pronounced minerality. Bright, creamy tropical fruit flavours and rounded in texture. The finish is lingering
Columbia Crest, Two Vines Cabernet Savignon, Washington State (£6.99 Bacchanalia
This US Cabernet Sauvignon is from Washington State - much further north than California with a more moderate-climate feel as a result.
Ruby in the glass, it has aromas of plummy fruit, mocha and oaky spice.
The palate shows ripe bramble fruit with good acidity and a lick of spicy, toasty oak; it feels soft and harmonious but with good savoury underpinnings and a firmness on the finish. Handsome and well-groomed in an all-American sort of way, this is Richie Cunningham - no rough edges, no hidden depths, just a good ol' boy.
A bin-end in limited quantities, it's just £6.99 and something of a bargain.
Magpie Estate 'The Thief' Mourvedre-Grenache Rosé (£11.95 Noel Young Wines)
From Noel's own vineyard in Australia, this is not so much a rose wine as a red without tannins, and should be served no more than slightly chilled.
And with the sun finally coming out and temperatures possibly into double figures this weekend, it's time finally to shake off the winter funk and party like it's spring.
Made from the classic Languedoc grapes of Mourvedre and Grenache, with a touch of Cab Franc thrown in, it is a cranberry-red in the glass and has a smokey spice and soft red fruits on the nose.
The palate is mouthfilling with more soft red fruit and a wonderfully food-friendly savouriness. Perfect for these sunny-but-still-chilly days.
Match with picnic food and especially cold meats, or any spicy food with tomato.
La Chamiza Malbec 2012 Mendoza (£8.50, Cambridge Wine Merchants)
And if the reappearance of the sun has convinced you to dust down the barbecue, this spicy Argentinian red from Cambridge Wine Merchants is just perfect.
Dark purple in the glass, there is smokey spice and ripe plummy fruit on the nose.
The palate is ripe and spicy, with more pure plummy, black cherry fruit, fresh acidity and savouriness. Long on the palate and well balanced, the tannins are mouthfilling and perfectly ripe with a pleasant savoury firmness on the finish.
This is a wine geek's barbecue red - ripe, fruity and quaffable, yet supremely well-made from really high-quality fruit.
Match with some smokey barbecue meats or, failing that, peppery steak.
Recommended Wine
The Malbec from Cambridge Wine Merchants and the Magpie Estate "The Thief" both score highly as well-made wines, but my recommendation this month is the lovely Two Vines Cab - available only in limited quantities, it is a handsome and cultured American at a bargain price.
Other related articles
Wine of The Month archive
Links
Bacchanalia - http://www.winegod.co.uk/
Joseph Barnes Wines - http://www.josephbarneswines.com/
Noel Young Wines - http://www.nywines.co.uk/Columbia Crest - website, twitter
Image credit: St George cross: http://beardedgit.com/?p=423, Richie Cunningham: http://www.retrocrush.com/archive2008/redheads/
Monday, 11 March 2013
Wine of the Month - March
With a name taken from the Roman god of war, March is neither quite the depths of winter nor properly spring.
Chilly, rather than frosty, it is said to come in like a lion and go out like a lamb.
February's snowdrops have given way to early-flowering daffodils and the days are noticeably longer if not especially milder.
It is no surprise, then, that this month we have all red wines - albeit not quite such hearty ones.
Aliança Bairrada Reserva, 2011, Portugal £7.25 (Noel Young Wines)
Portugal seems to have been on the cusp of greatness forever now - with unusual indigenous varieties, interesting flavours and a modernised wine industry, its has everything it needs to be the next wine region to watch.
Made from a blend of indigenous varieties (Baga, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz), this wine has black cherry fruit, black olives and bitter green herbs on the nose.
The palate shows ripe cherry fruit and firm, grippy tannins. There is a refreshing sour cherry acidity and a savouriness; the finish is firm and persistent.
Ripe and modern, it is also distinctly Portuguese - and great value; match with beef or lamb.
Chateau Plaisance, 'Grain de Folie' Rouge 2011, Fronton £9.99 (Joseph Barnes Wines)
Chateau Plaisance, based in the Cotes du Frontonnais region of of southwest France, is run organically by the father-and-son team of Louis and Marc Penavayre.
This 'Grain de Folie' ('a touch of madness') is a blend of mostly Negrette with some Gamay. An organic, low-intervention wine, it shows a blast of pure black cherry and elderberry fruit with a touch of spice.
The acidity is mouthfilling with sour-cherry sharpness and there is a gentle firmness that persists on the finish.
Match with duck or lamb.
4 Meses, Juan Gil, 2011Jumilla, £8.49 (Bacchanalia)
Made from Spain's Monastrell (aka France's Mourvedre) from old vines in Jumilla, the home of Spain's Big Reds, this wine spends four months (4 Meses) in French and American oak.
Dark purple in the glass, it is an exuberant pup with aromas of ripe bramble fruit, liquorice and oaky vanilla. Straight out of the bottle, this is a full-on, crowd-pleasing party animal.
The palate is full of ripe cassis and creamy, sweet vanilla spice - like a blackcurrant creme brulee - but underneath it, there is a soft texture, good acidity and a fulsome structure. For me the tannins are just a touch overripe and over-extracted, most noticeably on the finish, but don't let that put you off what is otherwise a great, crowd-pleasing quaffer.
Match with hearty meat dishes and stews or rustic sausages
Recommended Wine
All three wines here are very good and perhaps choice will be decided more by weather conditions than anything else, but for me the most interesting wine here is the great value Portuguese Aliança Bairrada Reserva from Noel Young.
Other related articles
Wine of the Month archive
Links
Bacchanalia - http://www.winegod.co.uk/
Joseph Barnes Wines - http://www.josephbarneswines.com/
Noel Young Wines - http://www.nywines.co.uk/
Chilly, rather than frosty, it is said to come in like a lion and go out like a lamb.
February's snowdrops have given way to early-flowering daffodils and the days are noticeably longer if not especially milder.
It is no surprise, then, that this month we have all red wines - albeit not quite such hearty ones.
Aliança Bairrada Reserva, 2011, Portugal £7.25 (Noel Young Wines)
Portugal seems to have been on the cusp of greatness forever now - with unusual indigenous varieties, interesting flavours and a modernised wine industry, its has everything it needs to be the next wine region to watch.
Made from a blend of indigenous varieties (Baga, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz), this wine has black cherry fruit, black olives and bitter green herbs on the nose.
The palate shows ripe cherry fruit and firm, grippy tannins. There is a refreshing sour cherry acidity and a savouriness; the finish is firm and persistent.
Ripe and modern, it is also distinctly Portuguese - and great value; match with beef or lamb.
Chateau Plaisance, 'Grain de Folie' Rouge 2011, Fronton £9.99 (Joseph Barnes Wines)
Chateau Plaisance, based in the Cotes du Frontonnais region of of southwest France, is run organically by the father-and-son team of Louis and Marc Penavayre.
This 'Grain de Folie' ('a touch of madness') is a blend of mostly Negrette with some Gamay. An organic, low-intervention wine, it shows a blast of pure black cherry and elderberry fruit with a touch of spice.
The acidity is mouthfilling with sour-cherry sharpness and there is a gentle firmness that persists on the finish.
Match with duck or lamb.
4 Meses, Juan Gil, 2011Jumilla, £8.49 (Bacchanalia)
Made from Spain's Monastrell (aka France's Mourvedre) from old vines in Jumilla, the home of Spain's Big Reds, this wine spends four months (4 Meses) in French and American oak.
Dark purple in the glass, it is an exuberant pup with aromas of ripe bramble fruit, liquorice and oaky vanilla. Straight out of the bottle, this is a full-on, crowd-pleasing party animal.
The palate is full of ripe cassis and creamy, sweet vanilla spice - like a blackcurrant creme brulee - but underneath it, there is a soft texture, good acidity and a fulsome structure. For me the tannins are just a touch overripe and over-extracted, most noticeably on the finish, but don't let that put you off what is otherwise a great, crowd-pleasing quaffer.
Match with hearty meat dishes and stews or rustic sausages
Recommended Wine
All three wines here are very good and perhaps choice will be decided more by weather conditions than anything else, but for me the most interesting wine here is the great value Portuguese Aliança Bairrada Reserva from Noel Young.
Other related articles
Wine of the Month archive
Links
Bacchanalia - http://www.winegod.co.uk/
Joseph Barnes Wines - http://www.josephbarneswines.com/
Noel Young Wines - http://www.nywines.co.uk/
Tuesday, 5 February 2013
Wine of the Month - February
Wine of the Month took a de-tox break in January, but with those New Year's Resolutions now merely a distant memory and half a drinks cabinet of various whiskies from Burns Night waiting to be finished off, it's time to turn our thoughts to February and Valentine's Day.
Call me old-fashioned but I think wines for Valentine's Day should be pink, fizzy or sweet - perhaps even all three. We start this month with a sunny fizz from Oz before going all pink.

Sandford Estate 'S' Brut NV - Joseph Barnes (£11.50)
An Aussie Pinot rosé is a wine that sounds like it shouldn't work - but this one definitely does.
Salmon pink in colour, it has aromas of smokey spice and ripe red fruits. On the palate, it has good rounded acidity and minerality - it feels like quite a cool climate wine - finishing dry and persistent.
Despite the jokey name and New World origins, this wine has a distinctly European food-friendliness to it, so it would work well as an aperitif, with a light salad or delicate white fish
Jancis Robinson describes it as being chock full of slightly smokey Pinot character with no excess alcohol or sweetness.
Carati Rose Cuvee - Bacchanalia (£10.99)
Image credits - Matt Ellis of Smiling Grape
Call me old-fashioned but I think wines for Valentine's Day should be pink, fizzy or sweet - perhaps even all three. We start this month with a sunny fizz from Oz before going all pink.

Sandford Estate 'S' Brut NV - Joseph Barnes (£11.50)
This is Champagne-style sparkler from Australia that comes with a big sunny grin - despite its New World origins, it has some Champagne character.
There's yeasty brioche and biscuitiness, with ripe orchard fruit and a pleasantly savoury rasp on the finish.
It has a bit of extra New World ripeness, but it is still an Old World-style food wine - you could match it with white cheese such as brie or light seafood.
Salmon pink in colour, it has aromas of smokey spice and ripe red fruits. On the palate, it has good rounded acidity and minerality - it feels like quite a cool climate wine - finishing dry and persistent.
Despite the jokey name and New World origins, this wine has a distinctly European food-friendliness to it, so it would work well as an aperitif, with a light salad or delicate white fish
Jancis Robinson describes it as being chock full of slightly smokey Pinot character with no excess alcohol or sweetness.
Carati Rose Cuvee - Bacchanalia (£10.99)
With its shocking pink / fuchsia label and blacked-out bottle, this Italian Charmat-method pink fizz is certainly going to make quite a statement on the dinner table - assuming that's what you want to do.
Despite appearances, it's not actually the hairdresser's wine that it appears to be. Sure, it is not an entirely serious wine, but it has some crisp
acidity with grapefruit and raspberry, as well as interesting aromas of chopped herbs and bitter almonds.
It will work as an
aperitif or with the sort of light foods you might want for a romantic dinner – grilled
fish or a seafood risotto.
Perfect if you’re
looking for that Big-And-None-Too-Serious Statement.
A blend of Cinsault, Carignan, Grenache and Syrah from southern France, this is also salmon pink in the glass, with a touch of spiciness and pear drop aroma on the nose.
On the palate, there is white stone and orchard fruits and some soft red berries. What makes it interesting, though, is the mouthfilling acidity and leesy savouriness that finishes as a persistent minerality.
Enjoy as either a sipper or with light food.
Other related articles
Links
Joseph Barnes Wines - http://www.josephbarneswines.com/
Noel Young Wines - http://www.nywines.co.uk/Image credits - Matt Ellis of Smiling Grape
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