Until the late 1990s, Spanish wines were as big, tough and macho as a toreador's cojones; then, the country underwent a quiet oenological revolution and started producing technically well-made, easy-drinking, fruit-driven wines from its hitherto little-known inland regions.
This Gran Reserva Rioja from Viñedos de Aldeanueva is now 10 years old and has elements of both schools; quite ruby-coloured in the glass, it has an intriguing, complex nose of spice, eucalyptus and leather with hints of vanilla and some forest floor; both robust and rustic.
On the palate, it is raisiny with sharp red berry fruit, a touch of cellar mustiness and a savoury meatiness that I am learning to associate with aged Rioja.
Not surprisingly given its 36 months in oak (plus a further 24 in bottle before release), it is quite grippy on the finish and needs some rich peasanty food - olives, salami, and manchego cheese or even game.
£10.99 from Majestic and PLB Group.
Links
Aldea Nueva - http://www.aldeanueva.com/index_en.php
This wine at PLB Group - https://www.plb.co.uk/wine/AL18VWRB-torre-aldea-gran-reserva.htm
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