The Co-op has been in the news recently for all the wrong reasons: being "ungovernable", being run by an allegedly drug-taking ex-minister, banking black holes.
However, back in the real world of day-to-day stuff, it remains a venerable and unique British institution and, despite everything, has not lost focus on getting the basics right, such as having a good wine range which has also impressed Victoria Moore.
Yalumba Barossa Old Bush Vine Grenache 2013 (£10.99) from vines planted in 1898, spends nine months in 2-6 year-old American and Hungarian oak; pale translucent ruby, complex aromas of warm roasted spices and red fruits.
Sweet, ripe cooked red fruits, a touch of cool mint and just enough juicy acidity to keep it the right side of jamminess, propped up by some toasty, peppery oak. Dense, concentrated texture and savoury, persistent finish.
Big, blowsy and come-hither, but underneath it all, quite classy - it is a Nigella of a wine.
Match with barbecued meats or roast lamb with garlic and rosemary.
Chateau Capitoul Languedoc 2012 (£7.99) La Clape is a rocky, scrub-covered outcrop in Languedoc between the Mediterranean and Narbonne.
Syrah/Grenache/Carignan blend. Dark purple, intense nose of oaky spice, dark berry fruits, hillside herbs and leathery gaminess.
Supple, custardy texture with perfectly ripe tannins and sweet vanilla spice; dark, elderberry and plum fruits with some pepperiness. Long and savoury with a warming, spicy, persistent finish. Deft - with heft.
Match with darker game - pheasant or venison.
Both wines provided for review.
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Two more Co-op Reds
Two Co-op Reds for Christmas
A Co-op Languedoc
Co-op Mendoza Malbec
Image credit: Nigella http://img.thesun.co.uk/aidemitlum/archive/00369/SNN1003F_369617a.jpg