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A classic wine - like a classic dish - is a traditional standard, as instantly recognisable as steak-frites or crème brûlée.
With no element of surprise or innovation, classics are judged by the quality of execution, by how well they are made. Familiar and reassuring, they impress most by being flawless, utterly fault-free.
These two wines from Morrison's score well for typicity - they taste pretty much like they should; the Chablis has orchard fruit, zippiness and a leesy-savoury depth, the Barolo has good fruit and structure with a mellow, aged gaminess. Both have a decent weight and length.
However, they score less well for quality of execution; they feel as if a little clumsily made even if from mostly decent base materials - the Chablis lacks precision whilst the Barolo is somehow not quite fully knitted together.
Overall, not a bad effort and not without ambition, but somehow not quite there either - an encouraging optimist might call them promising, a stern pessimist disappointing. Of the two, I'd personally be more inclined to go back for a bit more of the Barolo.
Chablis £9.99, Barolo £14.99 - both provided for review.
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Co-Op ChablisOverall, not a bad effort and not without ambition, but somehow not quite there either - an encouraging optimist might call them promising, a stern pessimist disappointing. Of the two, I'd personally be more inclined to go back for a bit more of the Barolo.
Chablis £9.99, Barolo £14.99 - both provided for review.
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