Dark Corner Durif Shiraz 2019

Another chunky red from Laithwaites

According to the Laithwaite's website, this is the pet project of a rising-star winemaker who didn’t want anyone to take a look or taste it until he was absolutely ready.

The ambition is admirable, but it does not exactly live up to its ta-dah billing.

This is not a result I would want on my winemaking CV; in fact, if I'd worked for ages and all I'd come up with was this fruit-bomb mediocrity, I would be much more likely sell it off as quietly as possible with the under strict instruction that my name was never to be linked to it in any way.

Is it a terrible wine? Not really - it's just somewhat unsophisticated, overpriced, alcoholic fruit juice for people who either don't actually like wine or don't know any better (Laithwaite's customers give this 4.4 out of 5).

What's there is vaguely pleasant as long as you don't pay too much attention to the details.

Dark Corner Durif Shiraz 2019 (Laithwaites, £10.99) dark plum and dark berry fruit with spice and liquorice; no rough edges but rather unsophisticated. All fruit, no underpinnings.

Underwhelming.