South Africa has not so much a quality problem as an identity problem - it makes all sorts of perfectly good and occasionally very impressive wines, but what does it stand for?
In this case, it is a modern classic - a classy, restrained New World oaky Chardonnay with plenty of fruit and substance but also harmonious elegance and subtlety.
I'm not clear why family-run estate Kleine Zalze decided they needed to bottle this wine under a different label, but don't let that put you off.
Cleefs Reserve Collection 2017 Chardonnay, Kleine Zalze (£12.95, Lamorbey Wines) orchard fruits, melon and citrus with well-integrated toasty oak, creamy leesiness and minerality; fresh, full, supple and savoury. Harmonious and adept.
A versatile food wine, match with chicken, creamy pasta and roast pork.