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Friday, 7 February 2014

Two Wines from Les Grands Chais de France

A review of two wines from Les Grands Chais de France

Les Grands Chais de France is the largest wine negociant/producer company in France and perhaps most famously the owner of J.P. Chenet; however, the company also owns a number of other chateaux and domaines.

They sent me some wines to review:

Ch Cantin, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, 2009 (Waitrose, £23.99) almost-very-good Bordeaux that could have been a contender - complex aromas of dark fruit, sweet spices, coffee grounds and musky undergrowth; ripe black cherry, pencil shavings and cigar box. Dense and concentrated.

So far, so good. But the tannins are are touch gainy and drying on the finish, the fruit a little cooked - assured, complex and expensive yet not completely convincing, it is a Prince Edward of a wine.

Match this traditional Bordeaux with traditional roasted red meat.

Chateau de Fesles, Bonnezeau, 2010 (Addisons of Newport & restaurants) astoundingly intense and complex Loire sticky - from 100% Chenin and with 15 months in oak, it is a deep golden colour with aromas of roasted peaches and apricots, white flowers; honey, beeswax and incense with some musky botrytis.

A sweet, peachy apricottiness with heather honey, it is rich and unctuous, yet cut through with an floral freshness and underpinned by an intense savouriness. Long, complex and elegantly balanced, it is very masterful. Very Good Indeed.

Almost a dessert in its own right, match with creme brulee, tarte tatin or even game / turkey with chestnut stuffing.

Other related articles
Three Loire Wines
Matching Loire Wines and Food‏ - with Fiona Beckett
Troplong Mondot 1998

Les Grands Chais de France - website

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