Taylor's Vargellas 2001 Vintage port
At just over a decade, this vintage port from Taylor's is still very youthful; only just starting to harmonise and integrate, it feels like it will hit a peak in decades, not years.
There are raisins, prunes and molasses, eucalyptus and some peaty whiskey; the sweetness of brown sugar and candied peel, dark dried fruits, sweet peppery spice and medicinal eucalyptus is cut through with a gentle freshness.
But above all, there is concentration and a dense texture, with an elegant and deft complexity.
Very Good - and will only improve with time.
Complex and assured, it is almost a dessert in its own right - match with petits fours and an espresso at the end of a particularly good meal.
It is also included in The Independent's Top 50 wines.
£30 from Majestic, Waitrose, Selfridges, Fortnum & Mason; provided for review.
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Taylor's - website