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Austrian wines were my first love and for a number of years I drank little else; since my regular visits to Austria ceased, I have not tasted Austrian wines as often as I would like.
A small country which is four-fifths mountainous, Austria is not a volume producer; yet with many varied terroirs, it produces all the major styles of wine.
If I were to introduce someone to Austrian wine over dinner, I would start with a Gruener Veltliner, Austria's "green"-tasting signature grape - all celery, puy lentils and white pepper - then finish with a rich and honeyed dessert wine from Burgenland.
Esterhazy Estoras Gruner Veltliner 2015 - £10.95 pure, precise citrussy white peach, with some characteristic green apple, white pepper and celery. Minerally, deft and elegant.
Good.
A versatile food wine, match with fish starters, creamy pasta or roast white meat.
Esterházy Beerenauslese 2012 – 37.5cl - £14.95 amber-mahogany with aromas of white flowers, beeswax, roasted sweet spices and overroasted peaches. Full, oily substantial and intensely sweet with just enough freshness to keep it all in check.
Match with strong, creamy cheeses or sticky toffee pudding.
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