Petaluma wines at M Victoria with Bancroft Wines
The old certainty used to be that Old World wines have structure while New World wines are fruit-forward.
There is also now a distinct, third category of wines that show both fruit and structure - wines that are ripe and pleasing, but also have gravitas, presence and deftness.
Petaluma, now back in the UK after a break of four years, is based in the cool region of Adelaide Hills, specifically Piccadilly Valley, the coolest and wettest part of South Australia; their wines are characterised by texture, concentration and a European elegance.
Both fizzes are traditional method from around 60% Pinot and 40% Chardonnay, barrel fermented in old oak with extended lees aging.
Croser Vintage 2012 crisp and fresh, with ripe orchard fruit and soft berries and a yeasty brioche. Good.
Croser Late Disgorged 2003 more complex, with some aged character, ripe red berries, cideryness and toasty-yeasty brioche. Very Good.
Hanlin Hill Riesling Yellow Label 2015 dieselly nose with citrus fruits and minerality; generous yet fully dry and some toast-and-honey complexity; long and fresh. Good.
Hanlin Hill Riesling Yellow Label 2010 from a very good vintage indeed, complex dieselly aromas, ripe citrus and peach with some aged character. Long, concentrated and mineral, very adept. Very Good.
Piccadilly Valley Chardonnay, Yellow Label 2015 toasty-oaky Chardie with ripe citrus and melon; very harmonious and and adept. Good.
Adelaide Hills Tiers Chardonnay 2013 bigger, fuller with more creamy-leesy cashew and brazil nut; textured, concentrated and substantial, very long. Very Good.
Coonawarra Cabernet Merlot, Yellow Label 2002 from a cool vintage three fruit is minty with dried green herbs, dried red fruits and very fine tannins. Fresh, supple, concentrated and textured. Good.
Coonawarra Cabernet Merlot, Yellow Label 2012 blackcurranty, minty, spicy with florality and fruit pastilles. Supple, with fine but assertive tannins. Will repay cellaring. Good.
Adelaide Hills Shiraz, Yellow Label 2014 Rhone-esque lifted, floral Shiraz with dark berry fruits, pepper and spice, and a supple, inky texture. Very Good.
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