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Until relatively recently, any reference to high-end Australian wines would have me thinking of bigger-is-better muscle-car wines with lots of alcohol and oak.
Less Daniel Day-Lewis; more Bruce Willis.
But all that is changing as Australia - which is, after all a continent more than a country - is bringing cooler-climate, more nuanced and elegant wines to our attention.
In particular, the Adelaide Hills is a
leader in ‘New Australian – New Wave’ Chardonnay,
wines which are elegant, textured and lean but which
have the acid structure to age and evolve.
Great chardonnays come from cooler regions, such as the Adelaide
Hills, where the fruit has had time to ripen slowly and evenly,
achieving full flavour while retaining acidity and freshness.
The region is at the centre of a new generation of Australian
chardonnays. The variety has now moved on from an
earlier style when rich, over-ripe and over-oaky wines
were favoured but eventually lost their attraction as our
collective palates became more tuned to refreshment,
subtlety, and more sophisticated expressions.
The popular transition to more vibrant and complex
white wines, desired by both consumers and winemakers,
has coincided with a parallel passion to grow and create
modern, complex chardonnay in the Adelaide Hills.
And even within the region, chardonnay’s renowned versatility
produces many nuanced variations, different fruit flavour
spectrums, textural lines and single vineyard creations.
A wide range of aspects, often sloping and steep, as
well as soil variations and complex micro-climates
across the region encourage the wide choice of styles.
As do the winemakers behind them, all striving to put
their chardonnays on the Adelaide Hills map.
The quality factor
All the wines here were Very Good to Very Good Indeed; all elegant, complex and nuanced, drinking nicely now but capable of aging.
Fresh, complex and concentrated, these are all extremely well-made wines from very high quality fruit.
The Pawn 2018 End Game
Chardonnay
Adelaide Hills
There are aromas
of nectarine, white
peach & melon fruits
coupled with roasted
hazelnut and oak
spice on the nose.
Way-way off into the
distance is the subtle
hint of ginger and
pink musk lollies—a
unique character of
the clonal selection.
The palate displays
citrus fruits, lemon
curd and almond
meal notes
The Lane Heritage
Chardonnay 2020
The Lane’s flagship white
wine, made only in exceptional
vintages and selected
specially for our Heritage
series from a single block on
the estate. The wine ferments
steadily and matures in our
cool underground cellar over
9 months in custom coopered
French oak 350L Hogsheads
and 500L Puncheons, all
100% new oak.
This exclusive
small batch Chardonnay
has great mouthfeel and
length, impeccable structure
and natural acidity, fruit
purity, balance and textural
complexity. Enjoy now or
cellaring will reward.
Paying homage
to the beautiful
Adelaide Hills,
this Chardonnay
seamlessly blends
lemon blossom and
nectarine with subtle
oak complexity
and freshness,
complemented by the
creamy mid-palate
and tight, long finish.
The aromas are powerful and complex with pure fruit characters of white peach and nectarine complemented by complex secondary aromatics of nutty oak. Palate Generous palate weight. Flavours of stone fruit and hazelnuts at the forefront, followed by grapefruit and lemon curd. Exceptional length and good natural acidity.
2019 Tilbury Chardonnay
The hand picked grapes
were part whole berry &
whole bunch pressed, due
to the natural balance of
the fruit no acidification
was required before
fermentation in older French
oak. Partial malolactic
fermentation was allowed
with a touch of lees stirring
to add complexity and
depth whilst being careful
to keep the wine focused to
display the unique qualities
of the Adelaide Hills.
Lifted with lime, white
flowers supported with
a wet stone and nutty
complex character. Citrus,
green apple and grapefruit
driven on palate with a
mineral textural element
supported by lively
acidity and structure
Penfolds Reserve Bin A Adelaide
Hills Chardonnay 2019
Reserve Bin A Chardonnay
has evolved into a wine that
is now a distinctive, single-region style in its own right,
with a contemporary and
expressive Adelaide Hills
Chardonnay persona. Fruit
is hand-picked into small
bins and then whole-bunch
pressed. A portion of the
juice is incrementally filled
to barrel directly from the
press and allowed to undergo
a natural fermentation, sans
inoculation. Every new and
seasoned French oak barrique
is its own unique 225-litre
ferment. Enhanced mouthfeel
and complexity is achieved
by fermenting and maturing
on solids with regular yeast
lees stirring. 100% malolactic
fermentation (all natural).
Restrained upon first pour. Induce awakening via a sprightly decant, or vigorous swirl. Primary white peach and assorted stone fruits give way to tempting scents of fresh crème anglaise/ panna cotta. Oak (just) evident, yet impressively integrated (80% new) Wafts of struck-match prancing above; intense, smoky barrel-ferment notes lurking below. Complexingly challenging – an abundance of character, yet not saturated; aromatically bedazzling, yet not an assault.
Henschke 2018 Croft Chardonnay
The Chardonnay vineyard
situated in Lenswood was
planted from 1984 onwards.
Its seven clones are some
of the oldest vines in the
Adelaide Hills. Viticulturist,
Prue Henschke manages
the vineyard using
biodynamic practices
and is surrounded by
planting of native Bursaria
Spinosa which assists
with pest management.
The wine has taken its
name from Frederick
Croft, an orchardist who
took up a neighbouring
property in 1938
Pale straw with green hues. Lifted and fragrant aromas of cut pear, white peach, nectarine, citrus and custard apple are supported by baking spices and toasted cashew. The palate shows richness and finesse with flavours of ripe peach and pear providing a fleshy textural quality, complimented by overtones of creme brulee and oatmeal. These characters are beautifully balanced by fresh citrus acidity and subtle oak nuances, giving the wine depth and finishing with incredible length.
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