English wine's success story is fizz - which at its best can outperform all other sparkling wines.
The table wines, needing a longer growing season, remain more of a pleasant curiosity than a compelling proposition - the reds even more so than whites.
So what are the chances of finding a convincing dessert wine?
One would expect them to be low.
And yet this Denbies Noble Harvest makes a strong case for English dessert wines - even, unlike our fizz, if they do not yet rival the best the world has to offer.
Denbies Noble Harvest 2015 (£19.99, half bottle, Waitrose)
Ripe poached peaches and apricots with heady, elderflower blossom, sweet spices and honey sweetness. Delicate, elegant and fresh. Balanced and pleasing, its limitation is a lack of substance and length.
Sip after dinner or match with a fresh fruit flan.