Three Côtes du Rhône Wines. And A Book. And Some Food.

Three Côtes du Rhône wines - plus a book by Matt Walls. And Some Food.

The Rhône is one of France's great wine regions - or two of them to be exact. For in practice, the Northern Rhône and Southern Rhône are distinct regions that share little more than a name and a river.

The North, running from just south of Lyon to Valence produces a mere 5% of the wines of the combined region. Arguably the most prestigious and quite possibly the most expensive.

The city of Montélimar marks the gateway to the vast, geologically diverse Southern Rhône which covers a greater distance east to west than from north to south.

Where the Northern Rhône has a continental climate with cold winters and the strong, cold Mistral wind, the South is Mediterranean with milder winters, hotter summers and less rain.

The North is mostly Syrah, with some Viognier plus Marsanne and Roussanne, from a handful of appellations; the South permits 19 grape varieties in Châteauneuf-du-Pape alone and plenty more elsewhere.

If Rhône wines have a single, unifying feature it is substance; it is one of the warmer vineyard climates in France and produces dark-fruited, fleshy reds and rich, generous, hedonistic whites.

I have loved the wines of the Rhône for many years, sufficiently so to take several holidays there.

However, the true expert on the Rhône is Matt Walls who not only lives in the region but has also written a book, covering extensively appellations,  producers, history and terroir.

Matt gives an introduction to the region and his book in this podcast, introduced by Joe Wadsack: ‎Wine of the Times Podcast Series: Living the Wine Dream - Moving to the Rhône to write a book about wine – does it get much better? on Apple Podcasts

For a deeper dive, the book is available here: Wines of the Rhône | Infinite Ideas (infideas.com)

The Côtes du Rhône appellation is the most widely known sub-region and is a great starting point for getting to know the wines better. Especially with some regional food.

Three Côtes du Rhône wines

Domaine Maby, Cotes du Rhône, Variations, 2019 

elderberries, plums, blackberries and blackcurrants with cool mint and some spice; fresh and supple with lifted ripe, juicy red fruits, sour cherries, dried green herbs and peppery spice; harmonious, inky, supple and substantial with good underpinnings.

Very Good.

Match with char-grilled red meats.

Chateau de Montfaucon, Cotes du Rhône, 2017

dusty-spicy garrigue with blackcurrant and dried berry fruit; fresh, juicy plum and dark berry fruit, minty green herbs; perfectly ripe, rounded and well-integrated tannins with a gentle firmness; complex and savoury.

Very Good.

Match with darker game, such as rare venison steak.

Terra Firma, Cotes du Rhône, 2017 

lifted, slightly stewed dark berries, peppery spice, leathery-mushroomy sous bois and herbaceous aromas; fresh, juicy red and black berry fruits, cassis, mintiness and a supple, inky texture with rounded, well-integrated tannins. Very harmonious and adept.

Very Good.

Match with roasted red meats, such as rosemary and garlic lamb.

Here is indie wine-merchant Paola Tich's take: Côtes de Rhône Wine Chat: From Beanbags to Paul Smith Suits | SipSwooshSpit