Co-op's newly-extended Truly Irresistible wine range
Gavi Broglia 2011, Italy (£9.99)
Italian whites are traditionally quite neutral and serve simply to refresh the palate between mouthfuls.
Gavi is - like Sancerre, Chablis and Beaujolais - a wine that was once suddenly very fashionable, then over-hyped and now ready for re-discovery.
Sherbert-lemony on the nose, it is citrussy, zesty and vibrant on the palate, with crystal clear acidity and a savoury persistence.
Mid-weight and refreshing it is at once both easy-to-understand and rather accomplished, with no rough edges at all.
It's light and zesty enough to drink as an aperitif - and does not improve with air, so drink it all up on the day you open it. Match with fish and a zippy Asian sauce (think seabass with ginger, lemongrass and chillies).
Godello 2012, Spain (£8.49)
Pronounced Go-Dayo, this is another crisp, fresh white from Spain.
With melon skin and white flowers on the nose, the palate is full of refreshing citrus with a hint of sherry-esque tang.
Medium-weight with good acidity, savoury underpinnings and a well-balanced finish, it is accomplished and enjoyable.
A few months ago, it would have been a perfect summer sipper - for now, match with light but rich dishes, such as creamy pasta with mushrooms or risotto.
The two wines are surprisingly similar in style and quality; both are well-made and thoroughly enjoyable, but the less expensive Godello is the better value.
Both wines provided for review.
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