Simonnet-Febvre Crémant de Bourgogne NV

A sparkling Blanc de Noirs from Chablis

Simonnet-Febvre Crémant de Bourgogne NV

Think Chablis and it's all about still white wines made from Chardonnay; so this sparkling Blanc de Noirs made from 100% Pinot Noir is intriguing for its bragging rights alone.

It is not, of course, a Chablis - or, at least, cannot be labelled as such - even though the grapes are grown in Chablis.

If we think of Chablis as more akin to a southerly district of Champagne than a northerly sub-region of Burgundy, then this fizz falls into place: a slightly warmer-climate, giving a slightly fuller wine with a little more fruit.

It is aged on the lees for 24 months, so is truly a Champagne-style wine without the price tag; it is my go-to "proper fizz" when it needs to be good and I don't want to pay for the label.

Simonnet-Febvre Crémant de Bourgogne (Private Cellar, £18.85) golden colour, fine mousse; grapefruit, orchard and citrus fruits with some creamy brioche; fine linear acidity and minerality; harmonious and elegant.

Good and Good Value (within its category).

Drinking nicely now and can also be aged.

Drink as an aperitif or match with light starters.

If this wine piques your interest, Frankie Cook reviews another Simonnet-Febvre here.