Sunday, 9 January 2022
Jatone Cognac
Sunday, 14 March 2021
Dima's Vodka
A Ukrainian vodka, made by Dima
The Ukrainian word for vodka is horilka; vodka (VOHT-kah) is the Russian diminutive of the word for "water" whereas "horilka" refers to the "burning" process of distillation.
A Russian once told me around the time of the collapse of the Soviet Union and the subsequent chaotic hyperinflation: you westerners drink because you like the taste. In Russia, we drink to get drunk and forget how bad our lives are.
My experience of Ukraine has always been less harsh than in Russia; the winters are shorter and the land more fertile. Instead of never-ending taiga and silver birch forests, there are rolling hills and river gorges in the part of western Ukraine that I visit most.
And Kyiv has a Mediterranean vibe with an open, western-leaning, metropolitan feel that is recognisably European where Russia has always felt somewhat alien, more eastern than European.
I first visited the then-Soviet Union in 1991, making new friends in the Urals mere weeks before the failed coup and house arrest of Gorbachev that precipitated the collapse of the country in many ways.
By the time I arrived in Kyiv a year later, that country had been birthed into an independent state whose creation was more the start of its problems than the end of them.
In subsequent years, I went back to Russia only on business; travelling only to Moscow and staying in upmarket hotels, meeting mostly with linguistically-challenged expats living inside the bubble, I saw little of what everyday life was like for the locals.
This was not the real Russia.
By contrast, my experiences of visiting Ukraine were more authentic and perhaps because of that, perhaps because Ukraine is a more of a European nation, I have a greater fondness for the country, even though I speak less of the language.
Ukraine's name means borderland and it is a long-standing mixture of various people's backyards - originally Kievan Rus, the "common ancestor" of Russia, Belarus and Ukraine, it has since been fought over and ruled by Poland, Lithuania and Russia, with Turkish, Cossak and Austrian elements.
This makes Ukraine something of a patchwork nation, with different influences in different regions.
My adopted region of Ukraine could be called southern mid-west, close to the Moldovan and Romanian borders and overlooking the Diester river (the back story of my relationship with this area is here). This is a pastoral region of rolling hills and fertile soils with peasanty foods; smallholdings with crops, fruit orchards and livestock plus freshwater fish.
Dima's Vodka
Handsomely presented, with the Ukrainian tryzub (trident), the vodka is made from three different grains, barley, wheat and rye, for a richer and more rounded flavour profile, crystal-clear clarity and an enviable velvety smoothness.
Dima's Vodka (£35, 70cl) yeasty-pastry nose with a touch of nail polish; rich, full and long; viscous and warming with some alcoholic bitterness. Elegant and refined.
Закуски / ZakuskiZakuski are snacks, small bits of food to consume after your shot of vodka, serving a similar function as pintxos or tapas, but more closely related to the Scandinavian Smörgåsbord or Ottoman meze.
Simple zakuski consist of dark rye bread, pickled cucumbers, tomatoes with dill and ковбаса (cooked sausage).
Warm zakuski include vareniki and pyrohy, akin to dumplings or ravioli - filled pillows of dough with mashed potato, meat or sour cherries (as a dessert) served with butter, fried onions and / or sour cream.
Dima is fond of pickled cucumber and says: we always serve it with a pickle, which is the traditional serving in Ukraine. The pickle is a powerful little thing with an explosive taste profile – its saltiness perfectly complements the sweet smoothness of our vodka.
Toasting
Toasting is an important part of Ukrainian culture; traditionally, you gather at a table groaning with food and take it in turns to say a toast, followed by a shot of horilka and some strongly-flavoured food.
Dima explains the significance of "budmo" (pronounced Bood – more) on his website:
Budmo is at the heart of all Ukrainian celebrations and encompasses far more than just saying "cheers".
Budmo means ‘let us be’ and is the shortest and the most popular Ukrainian toast. Budmo is said to originate in Cossack times when the Cossacks would gather for a meal and each in turn had a chance to say “Budmo” followed by their wishes for their friends.
Ukrainians are earnest toastmasters, and a party is not a celebration without a series of toasts, which follow a strict hierarchy.
The first toast is usually proposed by the host, for the meeting (za zustrich).
The second glass is usually raised for friends (za druziv).
The third toast, for women (za zhinok), is given by men while standing.
The last toast of the evening is always “Na Konya!” (Literally translated as “on the horse”).
It is the Ukrainian equivalent of ” one for the road” and comes from the time when the Cossacks would have had a last drink before galloping away. Coupled with the famous pickle, Budmo is a key component of a true Ukrainian vodka experience .
Tuesday, 1 December 2020
A Century of Ukraine - the Life of Ivan Mikhailovich Raichuk
Ivan Mikhailovich was not Jewish but Ukrainian, and grew up speaking Ukrainian; other nationalities in this patchwork borderland (the literal translation of Ukraine is "borderland") include Hungarians, Poles and Jews and the land has been ruled over at various times by Mongol, Polish-Lithuanian, Russian and Austro-Hungarian empires.
After the conversion of Ukraine to Christianity in 988 and the emergence of Kievan Rus', the country was annexed into the Russian empire in the late 1700s and briefly achieved a short-lived independence during the chaotic aftermath of the 1917 Russian revolution (with Kamianets-Podilskyi as its capital). By 1922, it had become the Ukrainian SSR after being ceded to Soviet Russia under the 1921 Treaty of Riga; this brought some level of stability but not prosperity.
The Soviet genocide of 1932–33, now known as Holodomor ("death by starvation"), left millions dead as a result of a man-made, intentional famine which rejected outside aid and saw confiscation of all household foodstuffs and restriction of population movement.
This was the Ukraine that Ivan was born into and worse was yet to come.
1941 saw the start of Great Fatherland War with Germany; a brutally pragmatic non-aggression pact had bought time for Germany to win victory on its western front and for the USSR to prepare for the inevitable. Aged 14, Ivan was captured and transported as forced labour to the Austrian hamlet of Höflein, a few kilometres north west of Linz with around 100 residents.
He was well-treated there, like one of the family; properly clothed and fed, he was worked no harder than anyone else. In some ways he was the lucky one; he had been captured to work as a farm labourer to allow the sons could go off and fight on the front. He survived, they didn't.
After the war, Ivan was given various options - stay, return or go to a third country such as the UK or USA. He chose to return home to Western Ukraine where he met and married Ganna Ivanivna Gatsmanyuk. She was five years older than he and had been previously married, but was now a widow after her husband had died in the war. There was also a baby daughter, Alexandra, whom he brought up as his own and who as an adult moved to Odesa, a port on Ukraine's Black Sea coast, where she had two sons, step-grandchildren to Ivan.
Ganna lived in Vrublivtsi, a settlement of a few hundred house on the banks of the Dniester only a few kilometres from Kitaihorod but over an hour's walk away.
The communists authorities were notoriously suspicious of anyone who had been abroad and returned; the ostensible fear was that they may have been recruited as spies, but a more practical concern was an ability to question communist propaganda about Soviet lifestyles vs those in the West.
There is no evidence that Ivan suffered from Soviet officialdom as a result of his time spent on enemy territory and it was perhaps ironically this experience of life abroad that gave him a broader perspective about the world generally, given the narrow confines of his subsequent rural life.
"Village" in Ukrainian refers not so much to population size as to lifestyle; Ukrainian villages are, effectively, groupings of smallholdings, detached houses built on plots of land of various sizes with vegetable gardens, orchards, flower beds and pot stills for samohon (home-distilled spirit, aka moonshine).
The local currency here is largely barter; you might trade some fruit for eggs, milk for a lift into town, a cut of meat is the butcher's fee for slaughtering your livestock.
A typical smallholding size is around 1,000 sqm and with electrification being a key aim of the early Communists' modernisation programme, most village homes had electricity by the 1920s and 1930s for cooking and a radio; however, cold storage, running water and flushing toilets remained a rarity for many decades.
Civic amenties amounted to a post office, a small general shop, a church (the Church of the Intercession of the Holy Virgin) and a bus stop on the main road to Kamianets-Podilskyi around 2km from Ivan and Ganna's home. Entertainment, such as it was, probably consisted of name days, birthdays, religious festivals and perhaps just sitting around in the yard in good weather.
The farmland of Vrublivtsi was collectivised under Stalin into a kolkhoz (collective farm) and Ivan worked as the kolkhoz vet, making him likely the most highly-educated person in the area. At home he tended his vegetable garden and orchard and kept small amounts of livestock; several rabbits and chickens plus a pig and a cow for as long as he was fit enough to do so.
Two children were born in the 1950s, with grandchildren arriving in the 1970s and 1980s.
The older girl moved from the village to the nearby town of Kamianets-Podilskyi into a professional job and living in a newly-built apartment in a low-rise development on the edge of town. It sat one one edge of a loose square with a grassy central yard, benches and a small playpark. Behind and beyond the flat were village-type houses, detached dwellings with outside toilets, kitchen gardens and livestock.
The sound of cockerels crowing in the morning served as a daily reminder and literal wake-up call of how close you were to a peasant lifestyle, which the roughshod communist naming of the street could not hide. It was Ulitsa Frunze - Frunze being the Soviet re-naming of Bishkek (the capital of Soviet Kyrgyzstan), itself named after Mikhail Frunze an associate of Lenin who had been born there.
Following his sister's lead, the younger boy moved to the capital Kyiv where he studied engineering, listened to music (western pop whenever he could get hold of it), married and settled down to start a family.
Eventually, there were four grandchildren (as well as two step-grandchildren), all girls and all living at some point in Kyiv. The oldest granddaughter went to study English at Kyiv State University, later followed by her younger sister who, after taking a business degree in Ternopil, moved to the capital in the post-communist era to work in the very western discipline of advertising and marketing.
By now, the Berlin Wall had come down, the Soviet Union collapsed and Ukraine had finally won its independence. Shortly afterwards, the country agreed to give up its nuclear weapons under the Budapest Memorandum in return for guarantees of security for its territorial integrity and political independence.
For all the political progress, the unwritten rule in education remained that male students took the more rigorous English translation course which would equip them to be KGB officers or technical translators whilst female students had to settle for the English teaching course, designed to turn them into schoolteachers of a language that, at the time, they hardly dared hope to speak in one of its native countries.
It was whilst living in a student hostel, that the oldest granddaughter met an eccentric British language student on her 19th birthday. He had travelled with a party from his university in the UK for a term's placement and, being a foreigner, was placed in newer, better accommodation that was not available to native Ukrainians.
The ring-leader of the party, a student with connections in the year above and an inside track, had then persuaded the group to move en masse from this accommodation block into something more authentic where they would actually get to meet local Ukrainians and be able to practise their language skills.
The hostel was made up of two wings on several floors with rooms of four bunks. If you were lucky, only two or three of the bunks would be occupied, giving a bit of space - or, importantly, room for a foreign visitor for a couple of months who might be persuaded to write you a letter of invitation to the UK.
The process of getting the UK was not straightforward; there we no direct flights from Kyiv and embassies for this newly-created country had not yet been established either. Travelling overland meant a train to Prague and from there a scheduled coach to London. But the embassies were not keen on the idea of letting someone in if they did not have a clear way out. So, after getting your letter of invitation from a UK student, you then had to have it countersigned at the British consulate in Kyiv for authenticity and travel to Moscow to get a UK visa from the embassy, then visit the French and Belgian embassies (in that order) to get your transit visas.
You didn't necessarily need to be on friendly-enough terms to expect a welcome and accommodation on arrival; just getting the authorised written invitation would enable you to get a visa and you were bound to find some low-level work somewhere that didn't ask too many questions so you could improve your English, stock up on western products like jeans and trainers and come back with a wallet full of valyuta - foreign hard currency that would hold its value during the Weimar-style hyperinflationary years.
Such was Kostya's plan; invite the eccentric language student to shack up with him and his buddies, then work the charm offensive to get the invitation.
Social life in Ukraine in those days generally meant eating and drinking with friends, or friends of friends. So as a show of good faith, Kostya took his long-haired new best friend to meet his girlfriend who was helping her roommate celebrate her 19th birthday.
The rest is pretty much, as they say, history: Kostya's plans to be invited to the UK went completely awry as the hostess and his guest took a liking to each that quickly developed into a relationship that had both of them contemplating the prospect of marriage within weeks - albeit unbeknownst to one another.
It would be several years before the eccentric student, by now a graduate and on the cusp of becoming a young professional with a presentable haircut and his first suit, would visit Ivan Mikhailovich in Vrublivtsi. A direct flight to Ukraine was now possible; from there he would take an overnight train to Kamianets-Podilskyi and finally a lift with one of Ivan's daughter's local contacts was arranged to get him to the village for a couple of weeks of R&R in return for a little work on the soil and occasionally fetching buckets of water from the pipe half a kilometre a way.
In his late 60s, Ivan was now a widower and could no longer manage to keep a cow, so his livestock consisted of a pig, chickens, rabbits and a series of dogs, all called Reksik, as well as growing fruit and vegetables that he would smoke to preserve for the winter.
The visit took place just before his granddaughter's wedding; Ivan was unable to travel for the UK leg of the ceremony, so a celebration was organised by the mother of the bride in Kamianets-Podilskyi with extended family travelling in from Siberia, Kyiv and Lviv.
A few months later, on an unusually mild day after a long, hot UK summer, Ivan's oldest granddaughter married her scrubbed up Russian-graduate fiancé at a town hall in the north of England and began a new life that would see her move to London, Vienna and finally Cambridge.
Her native Ukraine's hard-won independence remained under regular threat, increasingly so in the 21st century: 2004 saw the President poisoned and the resulting "Orange Revolution", 2014 saw the Euromaidan revolution which deposed Kremlin stooge and convicted criminal Viktor Yanukovych.
Russia, fearful of a democratic, prosperous, pro-EU Ukraine on its border, responded first by seizing control of Ukraine's Crimean peninsula and then by invading eastern Ukraine and installing pro-independence puppet leaders. The play was brutal but simple: turn Ukraine into a failed state that would halt EU and NATO expansion. Thus, it would inevitably fall back into the Russian sphere of influence and overturn the Western rules-based order - in that part of the world, at least.
The threat of democracy could not be allowed to seep into Russian kleptocratic despotism and this low-level aggression would act as a further warning to anyone looking to meddle in Russia's backyard. After the economic chaos of the Yeltsin years, Russia was back; if this time it was neither a global superpower nor a reformed quasi-democracy, it was at least a regional dictatorship, fuelled by oil wealth, that could act however it pleased in its "near-abroad".
The USA and UK (as co-signatories of the Budapest Memorandum) failed to live up to their obligations of preserving Ukraine's territorial integrity; noble-sounding words of outrage and solidarity may have been spoken for domestic audiences, but meaningful actions were not taken in practice. Indeed, Russians and Russian dirty money continued to flood the Londongrad laundromat.
By now Ivan was in his late 80s; like many elderly, widowers, he had become a creature of stubborn habit and refused to leave his home and move in with his daughter, despite the freezing temperatures in winter and the physical demands of a self-sufficient agrarian lifestyle.
He lived to be 88 and eventually died on January 16th, 2015. He is buried in the Church of the Intercession of the Holy Virgin in Vrublivtsi, next to his wife Ganna.
In life he was not a physically large man, of below-average height with the wiry build of someone living off the land; photos of him in middle age show only a slight filling out. Whether it was his education or early life experiences, he retained to the end a sharp mind with an interest in the world around him beyond his village and country. A curiosity matched with self-modesty and a strong-willed nature, to the occasional point of stubbornness, was his gift and legacy to his descendant generations.
He lived to see all four of his great grandchildren and, with some modernisation, his home became something of a summer retreat for them during the long school holidays.
Where 21st century Kyiv has become a self-confident, middle-class sort of city full of cafes, bars and supermarkets with deli counters, wine aisles and freshly-baked bread, the roads in Vrublivrsi remain rough tracks and the lifestyle has changed little in a century, if not longer; a few weeks in summer spent there is akin to glamping, with only the occasional nod to modernity; there is a phone signal (in the right part of the kitchen garden) and down by the river Dniester, an hotel has been built with facilities for day-visitors.
The lifestyle is rural, but far from idyllic; it is hard physical work at the best of times but there are fresh fruit and vegetables, home-made cherry wine, and both a physical and spiritual connection to the land for visitors prepared to roll up their sleeves and work the soil.
In a different world, it would be an international tourist destination. For now, it remains just another small, remote western Ukrainian village, a millennium old but facing an uncertain future with an aging, dwindling population.
Saturday, 4 January 2020
ArtWinery Traditional Method White Brut 2014
I have something of a soft spot for Ukrainian fizz; at its best, it is clean, elegant and thoroughly pleasant.
This fizz is made by the traditional method from Chardonnay, Aligote, Riesling and Pinot, then aged for a year on the lees in the gypsum caves of Bakhmut (formerly Artemivsk) in eastern Ukraine.
Now five years old, it is still very fresh and primary.
ArtWinery Traditional Method White Brut 2014 fresh citrus and white stone fruits, florality and vanilla spice. Elegant, mineral and pure.
Thoroughly enjoyable.
Drink as an aperitif or match with light starters.
Sunday, 2 September 2018
On Ukraine, Not Meeting Alla Plachkova and a Week of Drinking Differently
It is a little over 25 years since my first trip to Ukraine; in 1992, it was a newly independent country, somewhere on the cusp of moving from being Soviet Republic to becoming a brashly capitalist, Wild-East, oligarch's playground.
I had previously been to the Soviet Union, but had no real reference points - everything seemed very foreign, very backward and extremely chaotic; I could never tell whether the swathes of men in uniform and babushkas in headscarves that one came across constantly were there to maintain control or preserve the chaos.
I had been taught at university that Ukraine was essentially a province of Russia, its language a dialect, with at best its own local accent and regional identity. In this Russo-centric world, Ukraine was an unsophisticated peasant country, one where Stalin's holodomor of the 1930s was a crop-failure, rather than a deliberate act of state genocide against Ukrainians.
Historically, Ukraine is much older than present-day Russia; its capital, Kyiv, begat Kievan Rus' which itself was the origin of Russia, Belarus and modern-day Ukraine. Christianity came to Kyiv through the conversion of Volodymyr the Great in 988; it was only several hundred years later, with the Mongol Golden Horde in decline, that the younger and weaker city of Moscow was appointed capital of Rus'.
Like the Siamese fighting fish scene in James Bond, the Mongols knew that the Princely States of Rus' would first battle each other for local dominance before moving on to attack the retreating Horde.
Cynical, cruel and pragmatic; whilst the West was experiencing the Renaissance, the Mongols gave Russia extensive lessons in despotism.
Like any country born into strange and chaotic times, modern-day Ukraine has experienced the aftershocks and upheavals of newly-acquired statehood; revolutions in 1991 (independence), 2004 ("Orange"), and 2014 ("Euromaidan") have shaped the country's desire for a pro-European independence. Russian interference via the annexation of Crimea in 2014 and the ongoing war in Eastern Ukraine show that it cannot yet fully escape the clutches of its past.
But the capital Kyiv now feels more or less like any other European city - in a good way - manifested by a pervasive and fundamental European openness to new ideas, as if there is no longer a need for the state to hold a monopoly on the truth, as if people can be trusted to get on with their own lives without constant oversight or interference.
With openness comes a greater sophistication, experienced as everyday-life improvements; gone are the dull, functional state shops, barking Russian tones and locally-made Ladas to be replaced with Ukrainian as the official, as well de facto, lingua franca, a European dress sense and the suburban, continental-style supermarkets with freshly-baked bread, cheese counter and aisle of wines. Order, openness and plurality; these are the cornerstones of a democratic country.
I was due to meet Ukrainian winemaker Alla Plachkova of Kolonist at upmarket wine shop GoodWine a few streets into the hinterland of central Kyiv; I had tried her wines previously in London (see here) and was sufficiently intrigued to set up a meeting. Unfortunately, a combination of public transport issues and poor travel advice left me waiting at a bus stop miles away and I had to send my apologies.
And so we drank local:
- Kvas; made from fermented black bread (usually, but there is also a white version) it is fresh, fizzy and yeasty with the flavour of dark rye bread.
- Coffee (and chocolates); from the Lviv Handmade Chocolate cafe. Once part of the Austrian Empire, Lviv has a long affinity with coffee on a par with Vienna (see here).
- Zhigulivske Videnske ("Viennese") beer; a malty, golden ale, crisp and saline with a lightly hopy finish. Clean, well-made and easy drinking.
- fruit wines; made from cherries and blackcurrants, these home-made wines were a revelation, fresh, intense and vibrant. Who needs grapes?
We also ate well at Very Well Cafe, just off Kreshchatik near Maidan Nezalezhnosti.
Food for the soul came from the various churches, cathedrals and monasteries - Saint Sophia's dates back to Kievan Rus' times and is UNESCO-protected; the gilded, baroque St Andrew's grandly overlooks the river Dnipro not far from author Mikhail Bulgakov's house (now a museum); Byzantine Revival St Volodymyr's is the mother cathedral of Ukrainian orthodxy and the Pechersk Lavra, the caves monastery, dates back to 1051 and is also UNESCO-protected.
Saturday, 9 June 2018
Artemovskoye White Semi-dry, 2015
If you consider Champagne the only "proper" fizz, then look away now.
There are plenty of other fizzes apart from Champagne - they all do different things and occupy different price points.
Ukraine's sparkling wines are at their best enjoyable, inexpensive sparklers with plenty of character.
Artemovskoye White Semi-dry, 2015 a blend of Riesling, Aligote, Pinot and Chardonnay grapes and has a year's ageing on the lees plus some further bottle age. Plenty of aromatic and floral zip, with lemony-sherbet fruit, a bit of leesiness and a pleasantly off-dry finish to round off any rough edges.
What's not to like?
Drink as an aperitif or with match with starters such as mozzarella or seafood.
Saturday, 1 April 2017
Olivier Dauga's Ukraine and Bordeaux Tasting
The Ukrainian wines at this tasting were the more interesting but less technically adept; the Bordeaux wines showed flawless typicity and precisely reflected the conditions of their vintage.
Kolinist was founded around 15 years ago and is located on the Romanian border; Rollan de By is a modern Médoc estate that has expanded since 1989 to 70 hectares.
Kolonist
Bisser Sparkling NV (100% Chardonnay) significant bottle variation, but the better of the two showed fresh elegance with yeasty brioche
Sukholymanske white 2015 (100% Sukholymanske) fresh and light with green apple and a Jura-esque florality-nuttiness
Cabernet Merlot 2011 ripe and supple with dried green herbs, bramble and cherries; light and fresh
Cabernet Merlot 2012 soft, supple and elegant with good bramble fruit and dried herbs
Cabernet Merlot 2015 in magnum and from a better year, this has a little more oomph
Odesa Black 2015 (Cab, Alicante Bouschet) ripe bramble and berry fruits, dried herbs; fresh supple and spicy - big and full but balanced
Riesling 2015 full and fresh with ripe yellow stone fruit, spiciness and minerality; slightly off-dry
Domaines Rollan de By
Ch Haut Condissas 1999 dried fruits, dried bell peppers and rosehips with a muscular mineral core; long, substantial and supple but tiring. Drink up now. Good.
Ch Haut Condissas 2010 expressive, vibrant and fresh with bramble fruit, dried green herbs and mintiness. Wonderful wine from a wonderful vintage. Very Good.
Ch Haut Condissas 2014 sits somewhere between the light 2012 and the substance of the 2010; Good.
Ch Greysac 2012 light, fine and elegant with bramble fruit and mint; can't hide the inherent weakness of its vintage
Tuesday, 28 March 2017
Olivier Dauga's Bordeaux and Ukraine Tasting
What do Ukraine and Bordeaux have in common?
Quite a bit, actually, when you have former rugby player Olivier Dauga as consultant winemaker.
Over a dinner at Parabola in The Design Museum, Olivier presented a vertical tasting of wines from Rolland de By alongside wines from Kolonist with owners Ivan and Alla Plachkov.
At the pre-dinner tasting I was far more interested in the Ukrainian wines - and not just because I have a long history with the country. In my limited experience, Ukrainian table wines are fairly forgettable, so what would these have to make them worthy of interest?
With a fizz, reds and whites there is a range of wines and all are light, elegant and well-made. And after tasting Olivier's Bordeaux wines, the family resemblance was quite apparent.
Originally a plant manager in something typically Soviet and industrial, Ivan decided not to become an oligarch or buy a football club, but instead to make wine in Krynychne near the Romanian border.
On an exploratory trip to Bordeaux, he met Olivier and the rest is history.
Rollan de By is an excellent modern Bordeaux estate based in the Medoc - their wines were no less interesting - and, indeed, technically superior - but they told a rather more conventional tale; give me a list of recent Bordeaux vintages and I could put them in order of quality. On a good day, I might not even need to refer to the internet to do it.
And these wines precisely reflected their vintages - quelle surprise! - the 2010 showed best, followed by '14 and the '12; the '99 was fully mature with the fruit starting to dry out and nowhere further to go.
For the purist-traditionalist, the Rolland de By wines represent faultless Bordeaux - well-made, even in a weaker year, they are exactly what a Bordeaux should be, and demonstrate why vintage is such an important factor in this part of the world.
Sunday, 26 February 2017
Nemiroff Honey Pepper Vodka
I drank a lot of vodka when I lived in Russia and Ukraine - so much so that I rather went off it, but it does match well with peasanty Slavic foods like zakuski of gherkins, preserved peppers, salamis, cutlets and pickled fish.
This honey pepper vodka with herbs is more complex than the sort of bitter, alcoholic vodka that needs to be washed down with strong foods, rather than complementing elegant dishes.
Aromas of herbs and beeswax, intense more than fiery with some nail polish; herbal and complex, with a glycerol texture and a developing honey-sweetness mixed with a warmth that is part-chilli, part-alcohol.
It is not especially a spirit to linger over and works best with food - including dark, bitter chocolate.
Sunday, 5 February 2017
KrimSekt Brut 2009 - Ukraine
Based in Bakhmut in eastern Ukraine, Artwinery was founded in 1950 and produced its first wines in 1954.
Despite the name, this is not a sekt from Crimea (Krim); it is made, unusally for this part of the world, by secondary fermentation from Chardonnay, Riesling and Aligote with at least three years' aging in tunnels over 70 metres deep.
KrimSekt Brut 2009 Citrus and sherbert, slightly aromatic and floral with a saline-minerality and creamy oatmeal; adept, faultless and very pleasant.
Serve as an aperitif or with seafood starters.
Saturday, 8 October 2016
Muskat Ihrystyy - Ukrainian Fizz
This Ukrainian wine label reveals a lot of information - to those with the relevant linguistic skills.
It is a White Muskat fizz from the "Kyiv Factory of Sparkling Wines"; you must remember that the name dates from an earlier era when this part of the world was less enamoured of the concept of rural, artisan undertakings and when urban industrialisation was everything.
The wine was bottled a little over two years ago, but on pouring reveals itself to be already partly oxidised - topaz in colour with a cidery-yet-aromatic nose, it is almost as if someone accidentally tipped a bottle of vin jaune in the barrel.
This cannot be what was intended but the end result, however unusual, is not at all unpleasant - albeit, you probably have to be the open-minded sort of person who has tried both inexpensive Ukrainian fizz and vin jaune to appreciate the combination.
The acidity is fresh and citrussy, with cidery sharpness and florality; the residual sweetness is perceptible, but balanced off by the acidity.
Sealed with a cheap, hollow plastic stopper, it is clearly intended for imediate drinking, and has aged very quickly indeed.
But do rather I like it, in a happy accident sort-of-way.
Other related articles
Krimsekt
Odessa Brut White Sparkling Wine
Oreanda Brut NV - Ukraine
Prince Golitsyn's Seventh Heaven Masandra
Sunday, 25 September 2016
Zhan-Zhak Gold V.S. Konyak
Zhan-Zhak is the brand name; there is a range of konyaks of various ages; this is aged for three years
Cooked mixed fruit, fresh with aromatic sandalwood and sweet roasted nutty spices; warming and long with a smooth, harmonious.
Match with dark chocolate and an espresso.
Available, in Ukraine, from alcoshop.com.ua.
Other related articles
Shabo Shabskiy 4
Shustov "5 Stars" Cognac
Thursday, 4 August 2016
Shustov "5 Stars" Cognac
Based in the Ukrainian port of Odesa, Shustov dates back to 1863 and is now the largest distiller in Europe.
This five stars cognac is a blend of spirits aged for at least five years.
Shustov 5 stars expressive, floral and alcoholic nose; cooked mixed fruit and roasted nuts and sweet spices, soft and harmonious with a warm, lingering finish.
Match with dark chocolate.
Other related articles
Shabo Shabskiy 4
Monday, 2 May 2016
Artemovsk KrimSekt Semi Dry - Ukraine
KrimSekt is a range of sparkling wines from Ukrainian producer, Artemovsk, which itself dates back to the late 19th century.
This KrimSekt 2010 semi dry is a single-vintage, traditional-method blend of Pinot, Chardonnay, Riesling, and Aligote.
Citrussy elderflower and acacia with late-harvest orchard fruits; clean, elegant and fresh with a medium, off-dry finish.
Thoroughly enjoyable; drink as an aperitif or match with chicken liver pate.
Not yet available in the UK; purchased in Ukraine for around €4.
Other related articles
Odessa Brut White Sparkling Wine
Oreanda Brut NV - Ukraine
Prince Golitsyn's Seventh Heaven Masandra
Wednesday, 23 March 2016
Shabo "Shabskiy" 4
Ukraine's best oenological products are generally its brandies; this Shabo "Shabskiy" cognac has something of an unfortunate Boaty McBoatface ring to its name.
Konyak "Shabskiy" 4 cooked mixed fruit, sweet spices, freshness and a warming substance, albeit with a touch of nail polish.
Like much from Eastern Europe, it is somehow more immediate and vibrant than what we have become used to in middle-class northern Europe - and, not having lost its rough edges, is all the better for it.
A characterful and assertive brandy that makes its presence felt; thoroughly enjoyable.
To test a personal, theory, I tried it with some Green and Black's and found it a refreshing palate cleanser that matched well with the chocolate.
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Sunday, 20 December 2015
Cognac Tavria, Jatone VS (Жатон)
Tavria is a Ukrainian cognac producer based in Novaya Kakhovka in the Kherson region near Crimea; it sits on the same 46th parallel as the city of Cognac (France) and is one of Ukraine's largest spirits producers with a history going back to tsarist times.
The name of this three year-old brandy (Жатон in Ukrainian) is a reference to Jan Jatone, one of the original Swiss settlers and founders of the company in the late 19th century.
Cooked mixed fruit, sweet roasted spices and a touch of nail polish. Warming and alcoholic yet fresh.
Match with treacle tart or drink as a digestif.
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