Piemonte, in North West Italy, is that country's answer to Burgundy - a place of forested hills, truffles, game and complex wines, most notably Barolo and Barbaresco, both made from Nebbiolo.
This makes Gavi, a white wine from the Cortese grape, Italy's equivalent of a white Burgundy - a serious, versatile white wine.
For me, good Gavi is hedonistic and autumnal, evoking creamy pasta dishes with mushrooms or lighter game such as guinea fowl.
That said, you can drink it any time of the year; fresh enough for a summer salad, it would also go perfectly well with a Christmas turkey.
Tenuta Olim Bauda Gavi di Gavi 2018 (£15.99, Virgin Wines) citrus, orchard and melon fruit; floral and musky yet fresh with sweet spices and saline minerality. Assertive, complex and concentrated. Harmonious and well-made with good underpinnings.
Drinking nicely now and will improve with age.
A versatile food wine, match with pasta, lighter game, scallops or meaty white fish.