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Saturday, 22 March 2014

Two Jura Wines from The Wine Society - And A Book By Wink Lorch

A review of two Jura wines from The Wine Society

It seems I have become a Jura wine fan - I don't know when it happened. Certainly not at first tasting; that brought ... a degree of understanding and some intrigue, but not quite affection or enthsiasm.

A bit like listening to Van Morrison's unstructured masterpiece Astral Weeks, the first encounter can seem strange and disorientating; it is only with time that its charms somehow creep up on you.

I have written elsewhere about how and why Jura wines are different - suffice it to say, they are not in the modern, fruit-forward style.

A few years ago, you would struggle to find Jura wines in the UK - after the First Jura Wine Trade tasting in London in last year, interest and availability are increasing and The Wine Society now has the widest range.

Côte du Jura Tradition, Domaine Berthet-Bondet 2009 (£13.95) Chardonnay / Savagnin blend, barrel-aged for three years, un-topped up to allow air inside and create the conditions for flor to develop. Mid-straw yellow, tangy cidery nose; citrus and sharp apple flesh, savouriness and saline minerality. Long and elegant with a persistent finish. Good.

L'Etoile Vin Jaune, Domaine de Montbourgeau 2006 (£33) 100% Savagnin, aged under flor for six years. Mid-straw yellow, complex tangy, vegetal, cidery nose leading to a full-flavoured, appley savouriness. Long and substantial; very assured and elegant, will age. Very Good.

Jura is a region where wine and gastronomy go hand-in-hand - match these wines with typically hearty Jura food; Bresse chicken, ham or Comté cheese.

For the Jura enthusiast, Wink Lorch has just published a book out on Jura, focusing mainly on the region's wines, but also covering gastronomy and tourism with photos and maps. It is the first book in English on Jura and available from Wink's website winetravelmedia, priced £25.

Other related articles
The Wines of Jura - An Overview
First London Jura Wine Trade Tasting 2013

The Wine Society - website
Jura Wines - website
Wink Lorch - website

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