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Tuesday, 10 November 2015

Oaked Sauvignon Tasting

A tasting of oaked Sauvignons organised by Richard Bampfield MW, Jean-Christophe Mau and Chris Kissack at 67 Pall Mall

Sauvignon Blanc is currently the UK's favourite white grape; zingy, crisp and aromatic, it is a characterful antidote to oaky 90s chardie - if a bit of a one-trick pony.

So what happens when you give it a bit of deft oaking, lees-stirring and age?

Master of Wine Richard Bampfield invited me to find out at 67 Pall Mall.


Cailbourdin Pouilly-Fume Triptyque 2008 ripe, opulent and complex with orchard fruit. Good.
Masson-Blondelet Pouilly-Fume Cullus 2002 some aged funk on the nose, but pure orchard fruits on the palate. Complex, mellow and adept. Good.

Ch Brown 2009 pure, fresh, elegant and poised with a mellow harmoniousness. Good.
Smith-Haut-Lafitte 2012 floral and aromatic; opulent, substantial and fullsome with a rich, leesy-creamy nuttiness.

Chateau d'Yquem, Y d'Yquem

- 2012 apricot and quince, supple elegant and very long; incredibly harmonious and balanced; adept and assured. Very Good Indeed.

- 2006 even richer, fuller and more complex than the '12; dried apricot, peach and tropical fruit, incredible persistence. Very Good Indeed - and then some.
As you might expect with an MW in charge of selection, these were all excellent wines - with an old-school elegant, adept complexity.

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