Cool-Climate California?

Three "cool-climate" whites from California

If Californian wines make you think of big, oaky, monolithic, more-is-better pantechnicons, the good news is that the New World is also learning the value of subtlety, elegance and freshness.

There's still plenty of easy-drinking fruit, but it now comes with a more sophisticated and restrained freshness.

Not so much Die Hard, more The Fifth Element.

These three Californian whites are easy to enjoy, but also accomplished and adept; priced in the mid-teens, they represent reasonable value.

From left to right:

- Edna Valley Vineyard Chardonnay 2016, Central Coast (Majestic £13.99)
- Frei Brothers Chardonnay 2016, Russian River Valley (Waitrose, £17.99)
- MacMurray Estate Vineyards Pinot Gris 2016, Russian River Valley (Great Western Wine, £17.95)