I'm all lost in the supermarket
- Lost in the Supermarket, The Clash (1979)
On holiday in the southern Black Forest and needing a few wines for the week, I was faced with a wall of different German wines that I had absolutely no knowledge of - I could make sense of grapes, alcohol levels and prices, but nothing more.
So, I did what perhaps most people do in the circumstances and chose based solely on whether I liked the labels.
Actually, that's not quite true - I did reject one Spaetburgunder (aka Pinot Noir) for its 14% alcohol level, suspecting it may prove to be overcooked, and selected instead a 12.5% example.
All were bought in Edeka, a collection of co-operatives making up Germany's largest supermarket chain, in Bad Säckingen and priced at around €5-7, the equivalent of around £12 retail in the UK after allowing for duty, taxes and additional mark-ups.
In short, all of them were very enjoyable indeed - clean and precise, expressive and well-made, generally with a light-freshness. Perfect as sippers, they also matched with out holiday food (think wurst and spätzle with sauerkraut) I could routinely drink wines like this and never get bored.
Wuttemberg Terra S Weissburgunder 2015 floral and
citrussy with elderflower, lemongrass, orchard fruits, zippy lime and
sweet spices. Fresh, mineral and long (12.5%)
Merdinger Attilafelsen Spaetburgunder, Baden 2015 pale
and cherry fruited with oaky, peppery spice; fine, firm tannins. Fresh,
deft and elegant. (13%)
Wuttemberg Besigheimer Lemberger, 2016 dark cherry and
red berry fruit with raspberry leaf and spice. Fresh, clean and pure;
elegant and light.(10.5%)
Oberkircher Riesling Kabinett 2015 aromatic, zippy lime
marmalade and kerosene with ripe lemon, pineapple and peach; pleasantly
piercing acidity; flinty and mineral with white pepper.
Baden Markgraeflerland Spaetburgunder 2015 (12.5%) red
and black cherry fruit, fresh and mineral with good underpinnings and a
seasoning of oaky spice. Like Audrey Tatou taking you out for whisky and
cigars.
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