Grant Burge The Holy Trinity 2008, Barossa‏, Australia

Naming a wine Holy Trinity is just the sort of iconoclastic approach one expects of the New World - and what we have here is a typical blockbuster Aussie Barossa GSM blend from Grant Burge.

With inky texture, ripe sultry dark berry fruit and pencil shavings, it's a bit of a full-on fruit bomb - albeit a well-made one.

I asked Mrs CWB her view and she opined that it felt like a £10 wine - and in many ways it does; ripe, fruity and enjoyable with no rough edges.

Actually, it's closer to £22 in price, but that's not the impression it gives initially with all that ripe, up-front, primary blackcurrant fruit. Look a little deeper and you'll find some complexity and depth to justify - in part - the hefty price tag, but overall it feels rather like an up-market fruity quaffer, a posh glamour model with a few GCSEs.

Part of me wants to say "Put it away, love, and let's talk about Mozart", but another part can't stop gawking - it's that sort of wine. Attractive, but in a rather obvious and unsophisticated way.

Overall, then no technical faults but stylistically not quite My Thing - a case of more is less. And although well-made, not cheap either.

If Big Aussie Reds are your thing, drink this on a winter's eve by a roaring fire with roasted garlic and rosemary lamb.

£21.99 from Amps Fine Wine,  Conwy Fine Wines, Connollys Wine Merchants, Dickens House Wine, Emporium, Hailsham Cellars; provided for review.

As a footnote, the following day, the primary fruit has noticeably faded somewhat and it is starting to become a less obvious and more interesting wine - still ripe and fruit-forward, but not so in-yer-face.

Links

Grant Burge - http://www.grantburgewines.com.au/