Two Special-Day Wines

Two wines from Jura's Rolet and Niagara's Pillitteri

A special day calls for special wines.

Somebody recently asked me about my favourite wine - it's impossible to answer, of course, for anyone who loves the sheer variety, but as a concession I explained that wines defined by their production method would be a favourite category.

And so we have two of these.

Rolet Pere et Fils Vin Jaune 1998 tangy and slightly floral with savoury roasted flavours of nuts, spices and apple. Fresh and long.

Very Good.

Pillitteri Estates Kerner Icewine 2012 beeswax and orange blossom, ripe roasted peaches. Fresh, intense and concentrated.

Very Good.

Not only are both defined by how they are made, they are also non-standard bottle sizes - the vin jaune comes in a 62cl clavelin (albeit standard for vin jaune); the ice wine comes a 20cl bottle.

The Pillitteri website notes: our first attempt at making an Icewine from Kerner, which is the offspring of Riesling and Trollinger. Our Kerner grapes were harvested on December 29th at around -10°C to give us maximum concentration.

Both wines were sourced by Wine Director Oscar Malek.

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Sud de France Tasting

A tasting of Sud de France wines

The venue tells you something about the ambition.

Holding a tasting at the Ambassador's Residence says that you have arrived; you are no longer an upstart, you are establishment - with all the classiness and elegance that implies.

If we are splitting behavioural economics hairs, it actually says you believe you are there and you wish your audience to believe  the same.

Perception lags behind reality, which itself lags behind ambition. And Languedoc is, rightly, so very ambitious.

In terms of popular interest, Languedoc has vast potential - it is unspoilt, unstuffy rural France, with both history and heritage, easily accessible geographically and linguistically, with ripe-yet-sophisticated wines to boot.

And they are (still) very good value.

If Languedoc is becoming a generic by-word for well-made, inexpensive wines, its more ambitious sub-regions have greater aspirations.

La Clape is a rocky outcrop overlooking the Med whose wines I have been impressed with for some time. By contrast, the tiny appellation of St Saturnin where Virgile Joly is based, was a revelation.

Château de la Négly, La Clape

Ch Négly has been family owned for generations; they make wines both from their own estate on La Clape and from grapes grown in other parts of Languedoc. However, I found their La Clape wines most impressive.

La Côte 2015 GS+C blend; ripe dark fruit, supple texture and spiciness. Good.

La Falaise 2015 GSM blend; dark fruit, spices and an earthy minerality; supple, balanced (despite 15% alcohol) and long. Very Good.

Grands Vins de Pazac, Costieres de Nimes

Established in 1968, this co-op had a stack of medal-winning wines to show.

Le Pigeonnier Costieres de Nimes 2015 (Gold, Orange) Grenache Blanc, Vermentino, Roussane blend; floral and peachy, very fresh with sweet spices. Good.

Veuve Mathilde Costieres de Nimes 2014 (Gold, Paris) Vermentino, Grenache Blanc, Marsanne blend; waxy and fat with stone fruit and good freshness. Good depth and length, pure and clean. Good.

Le Pigeonnier Costieres de Nimes 2015 (Gold, Orange) Grenache noir, Cinsault, Syrah rosé blend; elegant redcurrant fruit. Pure fresh and clean. Good.

Mas Teranga Cotes du Rhône 2015 (Gold, Nimes) GSM+C blend; mulberry fruit and green herbs with peppery spice. Good.

Domaine Virgile Joly, Saint Saturnin

Organic, hand-harvested wines from the tiny appellation of Saint Saturnin.

Saturne Blanc 2013 Grenache blanc, Roussane blend; fresh, floral and peachy-apricotty. Clean and pure. Good.

Saturne Rosé 2015 Grenache blanc, Syrah, Cinsault rosé blend; fresh and clean redcurrant fruit. Very adept.

Saturne Rouge 2012 GS+C blend; dark fruit with plum and mint, animal and leather with minerality. Very Good.

Virgile Rouge 2010 GC+C blend; dark fruits and cocoa with sweet spice. Supple, youthful and complex. Very Good.

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Co-op Local Beers

Three more local beers from the Co-op

Another day, another assessment of some local beers from the Co-op.

Adnam's Ghost Ship (4.5%) malty and refreshing with bitter almond and grapefruit flavours

Greene King Old Crafty Hen (6.5%) like the citrus-hoppy-caramel Old Speckled Hen, but richer, fuller, maltier and sweeter.

Good.

Will stand up to a turkey with all the trimmings.

Adnam's Broadside (6.3%) a complex beer with dark fruitcake, aromatic grapefruit hoppiness, bitter-sweet roasted spices, citrus and savouriness. Very Good.

Match with a rich steak and ale pie or a home-made marmalade ham.

These beers are priced at £1.99 each, or 3 for £5 - provided for review.

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Les Jamelles - The Co-op

Two classy, inexpensive Les Jamelles wines from the Co-op

Les Jamelles is a range of wines from Languedoc by winemakers Laurent and Catherine Delaunay. Orginally from Burgundy, they worked in California before settling in southern France, which gives some clues to their approach - New World fruit and ripeness with Old World elegance and sophistication.

This Viognier and Syrah are both Rhône varieties transplanted west; both are on offer from from 6 April until 26 April 2016 and both benefit significantly from aeration - don't be afraid to decant for several hours.

Les Jamelles Viognier 2015 (£6.99, reduced to £5.99) ripe orchard and stone fruits, citrus and floral aromas with sweet spice. Substantial yet fresh.

Good value.

Match with starters such as pork terrine or makerel pâté.

Les Jamelles Syrah 2014 (£6.99, reduced to £5.99) lavender, violets and dark berry fruit with herbs, cinnamon and mint. Fresh and supple.

Good value.

Match the herby aromas with rosemary roast chicken or rosemary roast lamb.

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Two Handsome Devils from Esk Valley

Two award-winning wines from Esk Valley

To misquote Smiths frontman Morrissey, there's more to New Zealand than Sauvignon, you know - but not much more.

With 75% of plantings, Sauvignon is truly New Zealand's dominant grape. But it's not the only Handsome Devil you'll find there. These two wines from Esk Valley are both trophy winners.

Verdelho 2015 (£13.25, independents) aromatic and toasty-pungent expressive with tropical citrus and zingy, herbaceous fruit; pure and clean. Very adept.

Very Good.

Match with mozzarella and pesto.

Merlot Rosé 2015 (£12.20, independents) bubblegum and ripe redcurrant and strawberry fruit with a touch of spice. Very clean and adept. Pure, supple and long.

Good.

A perfect picnic wine, match with salads cold cuts and quiche.

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The Co-op's Local Beer Range

Three local beers from The Co-op

Technically, Cambridge is in East Anglia; however, it is also not that far from the East Midlands - or even the northern Home Counties.

Our nearest significant local breweries are Greene King in Bury St Edmunds and Adnams on the Suffolk coast, whilst Oakham Ales turns out to be based in Cambridgeshire itself.

Adnam's Explorer (5%) crisp, citrussy and refreshing easy-drinker with wheaty aromas and malty depth.

Match with salmon en croute

Oakham Ales' Citra (4.6%) refreshing malty blond ale with complex pungent grapefruit and lychees. Distinctive and very enjoyable.

Good.

Match with chicken-and-leek pie.

Greene King Old Speckled Hen (5%) citrus and hoppy with caramel and butterscotch flavours. Tasty and expressive.

Good.

Match with roast chicken and gravy.

These beers are priced at £1.99 each, or 3 for £5 - provided for review.

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Three Paul Mas Wines from Languedoc

Three organic wines from Languedoc's Paul Mas

The Arrogant Frog range from Paul Mas is distinctively and quirkily presented; by contrast, with its heavier bottle and cleaner look, the Cuvée Secrete is more conventional and classier.

Arrogant Frog Chardonnay 2014 [Lily Pad White], Pays d'Oc ripe tropical citrus with musky melonskin, warming sweet spices and a clean freshness; substantial and classical warm-climate white.

Adept and thoroughly enjoyable.

Match with roast white meats

Arrogant Frog Ribet Rouge "Rural" 2014, Pays d'Oc fruit-forward with ripe mulberry, blueberry and bramble fruit, sweet spice, low-but-fine tannins and just enough acidity; alcoholic on the finish in a warming sort of way.

A juicy quaffer or match with game and fruit-sauce, such as duck with cherries.

Cuvée Secrete No Added Sulphur, Pays d'Oc M/CF blend; darker and more substantial with coffee, dark fruit, green herbs and pencil shavings; sweet black fruits, plum and garrigue with sweet spices.

Substantial and hefty - impressive in a big-and-muscular sort of way. Good.

Match with game such as quail, boar or venison.

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