Joseph Mellot Sancerre le Rebault Rosé

An elegant and adept Loire rosé from Joseph Mellot

When you think of the Loire's Sancerre sub-region, Pinot Noir is not the first thing that springs to mind (it is best known for its flinty Sauvignons). When you think of Pinot Noir, rosé is also not the first thing that springs to mind (it is the great red wine grape of Burgundy, Otago, Oregon and a select few other cool places).

So, what to make of a Sancerre Pinot Noir rosé? A bit like middle class London white boys playing the music of poor black rural Americans, it may sound odd as a concept. But this one is as good Mick & Keef at their finest.

Put another way, if Sancerre is not especially a reference point for you, take this wines as it comes and it is a lovely, elegant, substantial, if pricey, pink.

I could deconstruct the proposition of a Loire rosé at length. But Master of Wine Liz Gabay has done that at length already, so I shan't bother.

Joseph Mellot Sancerre le Rebault Rosé 2017 (£22.85, North and South Wines, The Guildford Wine Company) bright salmon pink, floral with delicate raspberry fruit and spice; toasty, thick-skinned richness with creamy-leesy underpinnings. Tense, poised, succulent and adept. Very elegant.

Good

Match with prawns or salmon dishes, as well as charcuterie and spiced foods.