When In Rome - Barbera

A Northern Italian Bag-in-Box wine  from When in Rome

To people of a certain generation, Bag-In-Box wine is associated with bulk generic plonk for house parties - but, like prawn cocktails, pork pies and facial hair, there's nothing so "out" that it can't be rendered hipster with some ironic functional packaging, bold typeset and upmarket distribution.

When In Rome specialises in Italian made from small independent producers; the brand launched last year and is now available at Waitrose and Harvey Nichols and independent wine merchants at £25.99 per 2.25 litre box (equivalent to three bottles that will last up to six weeks).

Barbera - DOC Piemonte raspberry and red plum fruit with sour-cherry freshness, some woodsy-earthiness, spice and fine, gentle tannins. Deft and well-made; far too good for spilling on the carpet at a suburban house-warming.

Good - and Good Value.

Match with rich dark meats, mushrooms and roast dinners.

The full When In Rome range includes:

• Nero D’Avola - IGP Terre Siciliane
• Pinot Grigio - IGT Venezia Giula
• Barbera - DOC Piemonte
• Merlot - IGT Veneto
• Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso - IGP Venezia Giula
• Rosato - IGT Venezia Giula Beneventano
• Falanghina IGT
• Sauvignon - IGT Venezia Giula
• Dolcetto - DOC Piemonte
• Marche IGP Bianco (Verdiccho)
• Marche IGP Rosso