Quilon, a Michelin-starred Indian restaurant on the borders of Victoria and St James', was the venue for a tasting of Marques et Coop wines, followed by a epic lunch with eight courses matched to 12 of the wines.
It was my second visit to Quilon in a month, and I'm still not quite sure what to make of the place - the ambience is aristocratically restrained - no Shoreditch-style funky textured surfaces or hipster beards here.
As befits its St James' location, just round the corner from Parliament, it feels not so much ironic old school as genuinely old school - yet modern in concept; twenty-first century juxtaposition without the knowing irony. A joke without a punchline.
The food is refined Indian, well-executed; but excellent as it is, the fusion of European elegance and Indian spiciness somehow does not quite fully convince.
The one revelation was Beaujolais with cottage cheese and soya chunks, which not only worked brilliantly, but also outperformed what I expected to the better match, an oaked Muscadet.
The tasting
The introductions
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Foncalieu at Quilon
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