Ried Loibenberg Loibner Riesling 2003 Smaragd, Knoll - Wachau, Austria‏

Many years ago I travelled regularly on business to Austria and spent most of my per diem allowances on building an Austrian wine collection.

I say collection, but actually most of it was consumed fairly swiftly.

However, I did keep a couple of the better wines back to see how they would age - this was my last one and I was curious to see how it would be at a decade under the stairs.

Tested straight out of the bottle, there was still the ripe citrussy fruit that is characteristic of Austrian Riesling.

Opened again a couple of hours later in the evening, it showed the same citrus fruit with complexity and interest, but had not lost the streak of purity and linearity that had made it precise in its youth.

Weighty on the palate, it felt rounded out with complex tertiary aromas of damp cellar, antique leather and sherry-esque tang.

It was a Joanna Lumley of a wine - grown more beautiful and sophisticated with the years, but still voluptuous, poised and classy.

Very lovely indeed - rather like Joanna here.

I bought this Knoll from Wein & Co in Vienna for around €25 - I've no idea of the price now, either for this vintage or current release, but currency movements and duty alone will have added almost 50% to the price.

Other related articles
Other aged Wachau Rieslings:
- Knoll 2003 Federspiel
- Rudi Pichler 2003 Federspiel
More on Knoll
- Austrian Tasting 2012
- Austrian Tasting 2011
More on Austria generally