Tasted blind, you would be forgiven for failing to spot this as a tawny port - there is sherry-esque, tangy fragrance and wood spiciness with the fresh-savouriness of a Madeira.
The tawny hallmarks of red fruits and eucalyptus are there - they are just not what you notice first.
Long, complex and mellow, it is lovely.
Kopke is the first and oldest port wine house; this 10 year old tawny is a blend of wines aged for an average of 10 years.
Kopke 10 Year Old Tawny Port (around £20, independents) Complex spicy-roasted nut aromas with dried fruits, wood and honey; fresh and vibrant with sweet red fruits, butterscotch and molasses. Smooth, sweet and soft, with an harmonious finish.
Match with Christmas pudding or cheese.